Wave climate evolution in the Bay of Biscay over two decades

As a background, a review of long term evolution of wave climate in the North Atlantic is discussed. Most studies show that interannual evolutions in wave heights may be related to climatic factors, such as the North Atlantic Oscillation Index for example.Data of a waverider, consisting of a time series of 20 years in the Bay of Biscay (off Biscarosse, France), are analysed. Based on these data obtained from 1980, wave heights tend to decrease over the period. Also, interannual evolutions exist, particularly in the wave period. The fact that the annual wave periods at Biscarosse are found to vary more significantly than the annual wave heights led us to assume that it is an indirect effect of the evolution in the location of generating storms relative to the buoy. The relationships between wave parameters and climatic factors such as the North Atlantic Oscillation Index and the Garonne discharge have been derived: they show that the NAO index is negatively correlated with the river discharge and positively correlated with the wave period. This result is in agreement with the general climate scheme associated with NAO cycle proposed by Kushnir et al. [Kushnir, Y., Cardone, V.J., Cane, M., 1995. Link between Atlantic climate variability of surface wave height and sea level pressure. Proc. Fourth Int. Workshop on Wave Incasting and forecasting, Banff, AB, Canada, 59–64.]: NAO+ shifts storm tracks northward and dry weather are encountered in the southern part of Europe (conversely NAO− brings storm tracks and rainfall closer). Concerning wave heights, the lack of dependence on NAO index may be associated with compensation effects between wind intensity and storm tracks: wave energy is partly dissipated while reaching the Bay of Biscay in case of severe but distant storms (NAO+), which is not the case for storms generated nearer to the buoy and associated with moderate westerly winds (NOA−). However, the reason of the decrease in wave heights is not clear.     

Assessment of wind quality for oceanographic modelling in semi-enclosed basins

The quality of surface winds derived from four meteorological models is assessed in the semi-enclosed Adriatic Sea over a 2-month period: a global hydrostatic model ECMWF T511 (40 km resolution), a hydrostatic limited area model LAMBO (20 km), and two non-hydrostatic limited area models: LAMI (7 km) and COAMPS™ (4 km). These wind models are used to drive a 2 km resolution wave model (SWAN) of the Adriatic, and wind and wave results are compared with observations at the ISMAR oceanographic tower off Venice. Waves are also compared at buoy locations near Ancona and Ortona. Consistently with earlier studies, the ECMWF fields underestimate the wind magnitude and do not reproduce the known spatial structure of strong wind events. The results show that the higher-resolution, limited area models LAMI and COAMPS exhibit better amplitude response than the coarser ECMWF: there is a 3- to 4-fold reduction of the wind underestimation at the platform (from 36% to 8–11%). The wave response is also improved with LAMI and COAMPS: there is a 2-fold reduction in the underestimation of wave heights at the platform. These non-hydrostatic models also produce wind fields with more realistic small-scale, spatial structure during strong wind events. The temporal correlation between observed and modelled wind, however, is highest with the global ECMWF model due to the fact that large-scale features can be predicted deterministically, whereas small-scale features can only be predicted stochastically. Models with less small-scale structure have better correlation because they have less “noise.” This explanation is supported by increased correlation between modelled and observed waves, the waves representing a smoothing of the wind over fetch and duration. Although there is room for improvement, the high-resolution, non-hydrostatic models (LAMI and COAMPS) offer significant advantages for driving oceanographic simulations in semi-enclosed basins such as the Adriatic Sea.     

Preoperational ocean forecasting in the southeastern Mediterranean Sea: Implementation and evaluation of the models and selection of the atmospheric forcing

Within the framework of several local and international programs, a quasi-operational ocean-forecasting system for the Southeastern Mediterranean Sea has been established and evaluated through a series of preoperational tests. The Princeton Ocean Model (POM) is used for simulating and predicting the hydrodynamics while the Wave Model (WAM) is used for predicting surface waves. Both models were set up to allow varying resolution and multiple nesting. In addition, POM was set up to be easily relocatable to allow rapid deployment of the model for any region of interest within the Mediterranean Sea. A common requirement for both models is the need for atmospheric forcing. Both models require time varying wind or wind stress. In addition, the hydrodynamic model requires initial conditions as well as time dependent surface heat fluxes, fresh water flux, and lateral boundary conditions at the open boundaries. Several sources of atmospheric forcing have been assessed based on their availability and their impact on the quality of the ocean models' forecasts. The various sources include operational forecast centers, other research centers, as well as running an in-house regional atmospheric model. For surface waves, higher spatial and temporal resolution of the winds plays a central role in improving the forecasts in terms of significant wave height and the timing of various high wave events. For the hydrodynamics, using the predicted wind stress and heat fluxes directly from an atmospheric model can potentially produce short range ocean forecasts that are nearly as good as hindcasts forced with gridded atmospheric analyses. Finally, a high-resolution, nested version of the model has shown to be stable under a variety of forcing conditions and time scales, thus indicating the robustness of the selected nesting strategy. For the southeastern corner of the Mediterranean, at forecast lead times of up to 4 days the high-resolution model shows improved skill over the coarser resolution driving model when compared to satellite derived sea surface temperatures. Most of the error appears to be due to the analysis error inherent in the initial conditions.     

Hybridation of generation propagation models and SPH model to study severe sea states in Galician Coast

The Atlantic and Cantabrian coasts of the Iberian Peninsula suffer the periodic passage of storms which give rise to severe sea states. Standard generation- propagation models (WAM, WAVEWATCH, SWAN) are commonly used for operational oceanography purposes with satisfactory results both in the open ocean and in near shore areas but they do not provide information about the possibility of flooding in coastal areas. A 2D HV version of SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics) model is considered to propagate the signal provided by generation- propagation models to the coast and to analyze the nature of coastal structures overtopping as a tool to create maps of risk. SPH is shown to provide valuable information about overtopping (maximum water height and water velocity) under the stormy conditions suffered by the Galician coast on February 17, 2006.     

里海南部海岸在极浅水中的波谱建模研究（英文）

This study evaluates the capability of the Simulating WAves Nearshore(SWAN) wave model(version 41.01) in predicting significant wave height and spectral peak energy content for swell waves in very shallow water of surf zone during depth-induced wave breaking and dissipation. The model results were compared with field measurements at five nearshore stations. The results demonstrated that some breaker index formulations were successful for significant wave height prediction in surf zones.However, an incorrect shape of the energy spectrum and overestimated near spectral peak energy content at shallow water stations were obtained using all of the embedded depth-induced wave breaking formulations in SWAN. The dependent breaker index on relative depth(Kpd) formulation, which was successful in predicting near spectral peak energy content, resulted in an average error of 30%. Finally, this formulation was modified to enhance the model performance in reproducing the spectral peak energy content.     

Variation of whitecap coverage with wave-field conditions

Field observations were carried out at a sea observation tower to investigate how whitecap coverage on the ocean surface responds to wave-field conditions. Images of whitecaps were taken for every 4 h or 7 h in the daytime using a 3CCD digital video camera fixed at 14 m elevation, and they were stored automatically in a hard disk video recorder at a time interval of 1 s. The determination of whitecap coverage was made by means of a digital image processing. The 1/3 power of whitecap coverage increases linearly with increasing the 10-m neutral wind speed. On the basis of the deflection angle between the propagating directions of wind waves and swell, wave-field conditions are classified into four cases. The present results show that whitecaps are produced most actively under the condition of the pure windsea and they tend to be suppressed by the presence of swell. It is difficult to find a certain relation between the deflection angle and whitecap coverage. Whitecap coverage also increases with the wave age in the same wind-speed conditions.     

Spectral Wave Modeling in Very Shallow Water at Southern Coast of Caspian Sea

This study evaluates the capability of the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) wave model (version 41.01) in predicting significant wave height and spectral peak energy content for swell waves in very shallow water of surf zone during depth-induced wave breaking and dissipation. The model results were compared with field measurements at five nearshore stations. The results demonstrated that some breaker index formulations were successful for significant wave height prediction in surf zones. However, an incorrect shape of the energy spectrum and overestimated near spectral peak energy content at shallow water stations were obtained using all of the embedded depth-induced wave breaking formulations in SWAN. The dependent breaker index on relative depth (K_pd) formulation, which was successful in predicting near spectral peak energy content, resulted in an average error of 30%. Finally, this formulation was modified to enhance the model performance in reproducing the spectral peak energy content.     

基于WRF-SWAN模式的韦帕台风波浪场模拟

为获取更为准确的台风过程波浪模拟结果,将中尺度大气模式WRFD海面以上10 m处风速资料作为驱动风场提供给第三代海浪模式SWAN进行波浪计算,模拟了0713号"韦帕"台风的波浪场过程。模拟和实测资料比较结果表明WRF模式能较好地模拟韦帕台风过程,给SWAN模型提供高精度风场资料,WRF-SWAN模式能够较好模拟韦帕台风过程中海浪的演化和传播。     

通州湾区域用海对近岸波浪场的影响

采用CCMP背景风场与Holland梯度风场模型叠加构建新的SWAN驱动风场,对台风"梅花"期间东中国海的波浪场进行数值模拟,并结合卫星数据进行验证,讨论了拖曳力系数饱和值的最适选取,以给小范围提供最佳波谱边界。运用SWAN自嵌套进行小范围数值模拟研究,结合波浪测站实测数据进行对比,对区域用海后保留通道的两种方案进行对比分析。结果表明,台风期间保留西通道较东通道有效波高更小,所取特征站位平均减幅0.10m,最大降幅达0.25m。     

斯里兰卡科伦坡临近海域波浪数值模拟

通过分析斯里兰卡科伦坡港口所处地理位置及气象波浪资料,了解工程海域主要受到季风气候的控制,冬季盛行东北季风,夏季西南季风,热带气旋在经过或影响到斯里兰卡岛时强度较低,风速不是很大,对该区域没有灾害性的影响。文章利用中尺度大气模式MM5模拟历史天气状态,再现1991~2010年20 a的影响工程海域的风场过程。根据得到的风场过程,利用海浪模式SWAN计算科伦坡南港附近海域30 m等深线处各向的波浪要素,并利用卫星观测数据进行结果验证。利用优化后的模型计算了1991~2010年计算方向的波高年极值,P-Ш曲线适线法计算得到不同重现期的外海波要素。     

SWAN风浪成长模型在近海设计波浪要素推算中的应用

根据黄、渤海区20 a中最大风速对应的风场过程,利用SWAN模型模拟风浪的成长过程,利用针对模型推算所得的烟台芝罘岛附近海域的系列波浪要素,进行P-III型曲线的拟合分析,得到不同重现期条件下的特征波浪要素。模型计算过程中,只需对美国NCEP和欧洲ECMWF风场后报资料进行简单校正,据此通过SWAN模型推算的特征波浪要素值就可与根据芝罘岛海洋环境监测站现场观测资料推断的波浪要素值基本一致。     

透浪建筑物掩护水域波浪数值模拟研究

为了研究透浪水工结构掩护水域的波浪条件,采用MIKE21系列软件的BW模块及SWAN模型对假定工况下的波 浪传播进行了模拟。通过2组数值模拟结果与整体波浪物理模型试验结果的对比,比较了2种数值方法模拟掩护水域波浪条 件的可行性及适用性,然后采用SWAN模型模拟了12级风条件下潜堤掩护水域的风浪场,取得了较好的效果。     

边界适应曲线网格在天文潮、风暴潮数值模拟中的应用

采用曲线坐标系下的准三维近岸流波流耦合数值模型,采用边界适应曲线计算网格和两层嵌套方法,设计一套简单实用的天文潮预报系统,并引入风场以及考虑天文潮和风暴潮之间非线性作用的开边界水位,对2003年渤海发生的一次温带风暴潮进行模拟,计算结果与实测潮位吻合较好。     

Influence of model domain size,wind directions and Ekman transport on storm surge development inside the Chesapeake Bay: A case study of extratropical cyclone Ernesto, 2006

The Chesapeake Bay is vulnerable to severe flooding caused by hurricanes and strong Northeasters. A 3D storm surge model of the Chesapeake Bay is developed for studying the impact of model domain size, wind directions and Ekman transport on the storm surge in the Chesapeake Bay. The model encompasses the Chesapeake Bay and the US East Coast shelf to reduce the influence of model domain size on surge prediction inside the Chesapeake Bay and to account for both local and remote wind effects. This study used 3D model experiments, with respect to different wind directions, to diagnose the relative influences of the local and remote wind effects and Ekman transport on spatial surge distribution during storm events. The model results confirmed that spatial surge distribution can be well explained by the superposition of two distinct physically driven mechanisms during a storm event: incoming surge wave caused by remote effects and local wind forcings. A large model domain is a necessity for predicting storm surge accurately inside the Chesapeake Bay. The model results suggest that the interactions of the incoming surge propagating into the Bay and the local wind forcing from N and NE directions result in an enhanced setup in the lower to middle portions of the Bay, whereas the superposition of incoming surge and the local wind forcing from S and SE directions enhance the surge in the upper Bay region. A combined northwesterly wind over the middle to upper portions of the Bay and southwesterly wind over the lower Bay can cause a large setdown throughout the entire Bay. The Ekman setup along the coast contributes significantly to the water level variations during storm events. It enhances (reduces) surge inside the Bay under the wind forcings from N and NE (SW, S, and SE) directions.     

波浪荷载作用下防波堤地基软化特性的试验研究

长江口防波堤在建造期间遭到了强热带风暴的袭击,致使一部分沉箱结构或沉入土中1~5 m,或偏移初始位置20m。本文通过动三轴试验模拟了波浪荷载作用下地基的变化情况,试验结果显示,沉箱的过度沉陷和侧移是由于强风暴使得软粘土强度弱化所引起的。根据试验结果,提出了竖向排水联合堆载预压的方法来加固软土地基,为证明该方法的有效性,在加固的软土地基上对防波堤进行了重建。重建后经历几次强风暴该防波堤无损坏迹象。     

大连长兴岛北港区波浪条件数值模拟研究

利用国际通用的MM5风场模式和SWAN浪场模式,通过推算影响工程海域的台风和寒潮大风天气过程,得到工程海域-30 m等深线处不同重现期设计波要素,然后采用MIKE 21 NSW和BW波浪数学模型,对工程规划方案设计波要素和港内波况进行了计算。结果表明:工程受N向和NNE向风浪影响相对较大,外海波浪传播至防波堤处无明显衰减;设计高水位重现期50 a时防波堤处最大H1%约7.3 m;防波堤对港内围堰掩护较好,建成后港内波浪条件明显改善。     

Spectral signature of wave breaking in surface wave components of intermediate-length scale

This paper investigates the length scale of ocean surface breaking waves in the spectral range of intermediate wavelength components a few centimeters to a few meters long. The spectral properties of wave breaking are examined first with the dissipation function of the wave action density conservation equation. The analysis reveals a strong breaking signature in wave components between 0.15 and 1.5 m long in the form of a quasi-singular behavior of the dissipation function using the present formulation of the wind-generation and breaking dissipation functions. Independent studies of more-direct breaking observations of radar tracking of sea spikes in the past have shown close correlation between sea spikes and scatterers traveling at the speed of surface waves a few meters long and much shorter than the dominant wavelength. This feature of sea-spike properties is consistent with the breaking signature of the dissipation function in similar wavelengths. The intermediate-scale waves are the primary contributor of the ocean surface mean-square slope. The close correlation between the gas transfer rate and the mean-square slope has been demonstrated repeatedly. A better understanding of the wave dynamics of intermediate-scale waves is important for clarification of various gas transfer mechanisms.     

Prediction of wave parameters by using fuzzy inference system and the parametric models along the south coasts of the Black Sea

Forecasting of sea-state characteristics has a great importance in coastal and ocean engineering studies. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate performances of Adaptive-Network-Based Fuzzy Inference System (ANFIS) and several parametric methods in the Black Sea. For this purpose, different fuzzy models with different input combinations were developed for two different wind data sources (TSMS and ECMWF) at two offshore buoy stations. It also aimed to apply several approaches to event-based data sets for wave predictions. Generally, in literature the tendency is to use time series data for wave predictions. In this kind of prediction approach, lagged time series data are taken as inputs and current or future variables are taken as output. In this study, event-based data for each independent storm were extracted from time series data. Simultaneous or concurrent data of wind speed, blowing duration, fetch length and wave characteristics were detected for each single storm. These event data were then used to set up models. The hindcast results were validated with significant wave height and mean wave period data recorded in Hopa and Sinop buoy stations. The performance of developed fuzzy models were also compared with that of four different parametric methods (Wilson, SPM, Jonswap, and CEM methods) applied for two wind data sources at both buoy stations. Finally, it was determined that in the prediction of both wave parameters (H _s and T _z) the ANFIS models (R = 0.66, squared correlation coefficient, and MAE = 0.37 m, mean absolute error, for the best model in prediction of H _s) were more accurate than the parametric methods (R = 0.63 and MAE = 0.75 m for the best model in prediction of H _s).     

大开口型船舶在不规则波中的波浪扭矩预报分析

综述了现有船舶波浪扭矩的计算分析方法，用STF切片理论方法计算了大开口船舶波浪扭矩的传递函数。根据不同波谱理论模型对不规则波中的扭矩作了统计预报，讨论了波浪扭矩予报对波谱的敏感性。研究结果表明，波浪扭矩对波谱谱型的依赖程度相当大；特征波浪周期对统计值的影响比有义波高大；对相同有义波高，PM谱相应的预报值比ITTC二参数谱的结果更偏于保守。     

Ultimate load analysis of a 10 MW offshore monopile wind turbine incorporating fully nonlinear irregular wave kinematics

Loads from storm waves can in some cases be dimensioning for offshore wind turbine substructures. Accurate determination of nonlinear wave loads is therefore important for a safe, yet economic design. In this paper, the fully nonlinear waves, realized by a fully nonlinear potential wave solver OceanWave3D, are incorporated into coupled aero-servo-hydro-elastic simulations for a reduced set of wave-sensitive design load cases, in comparison with the widely used linear and constrained waves. The coupled aero-elastic simulations are performed for the DTU 10 MW reference wind turbine on a large monopile at 33 m water depth using the aero-elastic code HAWC2. Effect of the wave nonlinearity is investigated in terms of the ultimate sectional moments at tower bottom and monopile mudline. Higher ultimate moments, 5% at tower bottom and 13% at monopile mudline as maximum, are predicated when the nonlinear waves are used. It could be explained by the fact that the extreme nonlinear waves, that are close to the breaking limit, can induce resonant ringing-type responses, and hereby dominate the ultimate load responses. However, the constrained wave approach shows marginal difference compared to the standard linear wave approach. It can be concluded at least for the present configuration that the industry standard approaches (linear and constrained wave approach) underestimate the ultimate load responses on offshore wind turbines in severe sea states.