低频波浪在常水深地形中传播的数值研究

利用基于Boussinesq方程的波浪辐射应力计算模型,模拟常水深地形中传播的低频波浪,研究其形态变化,以及低频波浪与波浪辐射应力之间的关系。结果发现约束长波的波幅和波群的辐射应力值基本保持在某一均值不变;主频的波幅、约束长波的波幅都会做一定周期的震荡,同时波群的辐射应力也随之而震荡,三者之间的变化关系是波群非线性能量传递的表现。

Numerical simulation of low-frequency waves in a horizontal bottom

A method of calculating the wave radiation stress based on the Boussinesq equations is used to simulate the low-frequency waves in a horizontal bottom.The results show that the amplitude of the bound wave and the wave radiation stress maintain basically a certain value;the amplitude of the incident wave and that of the bound wave keep oscillation within a certain period,and the wave radiation stress does the oscillation simultaneously.The relationships among them are caused by the nonlinear energy transformation among the different wave factors.