波浪在珊瑚礁坪上传播的水槽试验研究

为研究波浪在珊瑚礁上的传播规律,分析波浪传至礁缘后破碎及传播情况,为设计波要素的确定提供参考依据。试验模拟了常年平均波浪和重现期50 a两种波浪条件。试验结果表明:波浪沿传播方向在礁坪边缘附近破碎后继续向坪内传播,并达到波面稳定状态,礁坪上的波浪传播特性表现为礁缘处波浪易破碎和礁坪上波浪衰减较快;波浪破碎表现为行进波破碎,且小于波浪在一般缓坡地形上的破碎指标,破碎波高水深比(Hb/d)约为0.5附近,重现期50 a大浪时礁缘处最大可达0.76。

Flume experiment research on law of wave propagation in reef flat

In order to research the propagation of waves on the reef and the wave to the reef edge after crushing and propagation,and to provide the reference basis for the determination of design elements,two wave conditions of the average annual waves and 50 a return period waves were simulated by the flume experiment.The test results indicate that the waves along the propagation direction continue to spread after breaking in the reef near the edge,and achieve the stable state at the surface of reef.The characteristics of the wave propagation show that the reef edge waves are easily broken,and the reef wave attenuates rapidly.The broken wave manifests as the breaking of traveling wave,and the breaker index is less than the waves in the general slope.The ratio(Hb/d) of wave height to water depth is about 0.5,while the ratio on the reef edge may be up to 0.76 with 50 a return periods.