非缓坡非均匀流场中多向不规则波传播数学模型的建立

根据线性波动的叠加原理和波浪方向谱理论,在文献1]的非缓坡非均匀流场的规则波基本方程的基础上,推导出了非缓坡非均匀流场中的多向不规则波传播变形的偏微分方程,并使用有限差分方法建立了数学模型。该模型避开了求解波动势函数的困难,直接求解波动能量的空间分布,可采用简单的有限差分数值方法求解,对空间步长没有限制,适合非缓坡复杂地形及存在流场的情况下大面积波浪场(波高和波向)的计算。

Development of mathematical model for irregular multi- directional wave propagation in rapidly varying topography and uneven currents

On the basis of regular wave transformation equation in reference 1] in uneven current and rapidly varying topography,the governing equations are derived for irregular multi-directional wave propagation in uneven current and rapidly varying topography according to the principle of superposition of linear wave and the wave directional spectrum theory.Mathematical model based on the above equations is then set up by means of the finite difference scheme.Avoiding the difficulty of solving the potential function,the model aims only at the calculation of wave direction and the distribution of wave energy,but not the depicting of wave surface undulation.Consequently,the present model can be numerically solved by finite difference method,has no limitations to the spatial step and is suitable for wave field(wave height and wave main direction) computation of large coastal waters with rapidly varying bottom topography and uneven currents.