海滩平衡剖面研究述评

平衡剖面是指在波浪、潮流等动力要素和泥沙特性不变的条件下,海滩剖面会逐渐趋于平衡。平衡剖面理论对海岸工程的建设,海滩养护的设计等具有重要的指导意义。回顾了国内外对海滩平衡剖面理论的研究进展,从平衡剖面的经验形态函数、水沙运动机制和平衡时间尺度三个方面,系统概述了该领域的研究现状与发展趋势,归纳了现有研究的局限性,提出了相应的研究展望。     

粤东后江湾近岸波浪场数值模拟

利用缓坡方程对粤东后江湾近岸波浪场进行了模拟。结果表明后江湾波浪主要在岸线附近发生变形。近岸岛礁对后江湾波浪传播有重要的影响。底摩擦耗能作用因波浪入射方向而异,ESE、E向入射波因底摩擦耗能少,近岸易产成大浪。     

近岸波浪变形数值模型的比较研究

外海深水区的波浪传播到近岸浅水区时,受到岛屿、地形与建筑物等影响,发生折射、绕射、反射和破碎等一系列变形。准确计算近岸与港内波浪分布,成为港口与海岸工程研究的重要课题。文章在总结波浪数值模拟发展现状的基础上,对目前常用的基于椭圆型缓坡方程的CGWAVE模型、基于Boussinesq方程的MIKE21-BW模型和基于动谱平衡方程的SWAN模型进行了比较研究。     

规则波作用下沙质海岸岸滩演变规律三维试验研究

为探究长时间序列斜向规则波作用下平直沙质岸滩演变基本规律,在波浪港池中开展三维波浪泥沙物理模型试验.试验结果表明:在上游无沙源补充的情况下,沙滩将形成不平衡沿岸输沙海岸和平衡沿岸输沙海岸.不平衡沿岸输沙海岸地形等深线分布不均匀,形态不顺直,近岸岸滩发生侵蚀,离岸处泥沙沉积,岸滩剖面坡度在近岸较陡,岸滩中部较缓,离岸处变...     

波浪作用下人工沙滩剖面横向输沙试验研究

随着在滩涂之上建设人工沙滩的举措逐渐增多,人工沙滩剖面横向输沙研究有非常重要的现实意义。在与海岸动力相互适应的原岸滩上建造人工沙滩是较为复杂的问题,并且实际工程中的人工沙滩还受到工程措施的影响,剖面形态较难预测。在原海滩上建造人工沙滩较复杂,它适应了海岸的力量;实际工程中的新滩受工程测量的影响,因此其剖面形状难以预测。针对这个问题,采用物理模型试验的方法,针对受挡沙坝及护岸限制的人工沙滩剖面在不同水位及波浪条件下的形态变化进行试验研究,并应用工程中常用的平衡剖面模型对相对稳定的剖面进行计算比较,得出了形成稳定的剖面形态所需要的条件。试验结果验证了初始岸滩坡度1∶15的适用性,得出了当波浪受结构物影响较小时可以形成均衡沙滩剖面的结论。     

漳州南太武海滩泥化综合整治

南太武海滩前部水域浪小流弱,九龙江和近岸陆域排洪排污对海滩直接影响较大,造成严重的沙滩泥化和环境问题。面对复杂的外部边界条件,综合海岸动力学、生态学、环境学等多学科的方法,统筹城市排洪排污需求和景观生态需要,分析沙滩泥化的现状和机理,从技术、经济和生态方面论证了治理方案的可行性,并创新性探索减淤屏在整治海滩泥化工程设计中的应用。     

基于缓坡方程在岛礁地形上波浪破碎的模拟研究

波浪从深海传至近岸岛礁时,一般需要经过落差较大的礁坪边缘,水深急剧变化,导致波浪在传播过程中发生破碎,因此准确模拟波浪的破碎过程以及破碎后的波高大小,对于岛礁海岸工程建设具有重要的意义。缓坡方程是描述近岸波浪传播变形较好的数值模型之一,文章在采用自适应有限元求解缓坡方程所建立的数值计算模型的基础上,引入描述波浪破碎的模型,建立可以描述波浪破碎影响的近岸波浪数值模型。基于二维岛礁地形上的波浪实验,比较分析了4种不同的波浪破碎能量损失因子,给出了适合于岛礁地形条件下波浪传播破碎模拟的模型。     

海洋生态系统及海岸工程生态影响预测模型研究进展

对海洋生态系统的研究已形成了以实验观测为基础、建立生态模型的方法。文章对已有的海洋生态模型研究成果进行了归纳总结,认为初级生产力模型是纯生态模型的主要发展方向,综合考虑物理生化作用的生态系统动力学模型将是未来海洋生态研究的必然趋势。同时,由于我国大规模海岸工程建设对近岸海域生态系统造成了较大影响,而相关的生态影响预测模型研究较少,为有效预测评价海岸工程建设对近岸海域生态系统的影响,进一步深入研究海岸工程建设对近岸海洋生态影响预测模型将显得尤为重要。     

大连太平湾海区近岸地貌与沉积特征

通过大连太平湾海岸动力地貌调查,分析研究了厂址及周边海岸冲刷、堆积等不同地貌形态特征、岸线冲蚀形态、水下沉积物分布特征。分析结果表明,该区海岸岬角处表现为冲刷,海蚀地貌发育,海蚀柱、海蚀崖与海蚀平台发育较为典型,岬湾处海滩呈微淤状,岸滩宽度较大,沉积物中以粗中砂所占的比例最大,并显示北粗南细的格局。太平湾附近海岸进行了大面积的近岸围海养殖工程,目前仍有岸段养参池石堤向海推进,其规模和占海面积均较大,海岸变化幅度较为显著。     

滨海沙滩冲淤稳定性的数值模拟研究

近几年海洋风暴活动频繁,伴随着人类不合理的海岸工程造成的影响,部分海岸沙滩侵蚀严重,研究海岸沙滩侵蚀机制成为当前海岸工程科学的前沿性问题。本文以日照万平口沙滩为研究对象,根据实测水深地形数据及相关水文气象资料,搭建研究海域处纯潮流作用、波生流作用、单向波流耦合作用、双向波流耦合作用下的泥沙冲淤数值模型,研究不同水动力环境对近岸沙滩稳定性的影响,得出近岸海域受潮流和波浪的共同作用产生泥沙输移。     

法国日安东连岛沙洲沿岸海滩剖面经验平衡（英文）

Beaches along the eastern branch of the Giens double tombolo are subject to coastal erosion. Prediction of the behavior of the beach profile configuration in response to natural and anthropogenic changes using the concept of equilibrium beach profile(EBP) could be useful in finding the most suitable measure to address the erosion problem. Field investigation data of 11 beaches along the eastern tombolo were supplied for this study, and a nonlinear fitting technique was applied to estimate the best parameter values of seven empirical formulations of the relevant EBP. All of the observed beach profiles could be described by a single function, but a single EBP was inadequate to represent all of the beach profiles observed. The variation found could be explained in terms of longshore variation of bathymetry, sediment size, and wave parameters. Analysis of the validity of the EBPs revealed that a representative EBP of each beach is governed by different equilibrium parameters.     

Empirical Equilibrium Beach Profiles Along the Eastern Tombolo of Giens

Beaches along the eastern branch of the Giens double tombolo are subject to coastal erosion. Prediction of the behavior of the beach profile configuration in response to natural and anthropogenic changes using the concept of equilibrium beach profile (EBP) could be useful in finding the most suitable measure to address the erosion problem. Field investigation data of 11 beaches along the eastern tombolo were supplied for this study, and a nonlinear fitting technique was applied to estimate the best parameter values of seven empirical formulations of the relevant EBP. All of the observed beach profiles could be described by a single function, but a single EBP was inadequate to represent all of the beach profiles observed. The variation found could be explained in terms of longshore variation of bathymetry, sediment size, and wave parameters. Analysis of the validity of the EBPs revealed that a representative EBP of each beach is governed by different equilibrium parameters.     

人工沙滩在堤后次生波作用下的稳定性试验

基于波浪泥沙物理模型,考虑不同水位条件、不同重现期的波浪作用以及复坡和单坡2种不同坡度的沙滩坡面,对斯里兰卡科伦坡港口人工沙滩的冲淤情况及稳定性进行试验研究。结果表明,在次生波作用下,沙滩出现了不同程度的冲刷,沙滩剖面出现冲刷的主要部位一般位于水面线以下的波浪破碎带内,但当波浪条件增大时,人工沙滩剖面在水面线以上也呈普遍冲刷状态。在试验工况范围内,外海水位越高,波高、周期越大,防波堤堤后的次生波越大,所造成的沙滩剖面变形越大,冲刷深度越大。复坡和单坡2种不同坡度方案滩面泥沙在次生波作用下的冲淤部位基本相似,剖面稳定性相当。     

A medium-resolution wave hindcast study over the Central and Western Mediterranean Sea

The present study is aimed at determining the confidence limits of design wave parameters derived from numerical modeling—for both extremes and operational conditions—over the Central and Western Mediterranean Sea. The paper presents the methodology and results of an extensive validation activity conducted on a chain of medium-resolution third-generation wave models used for hindcast purposes. The stringent requirements of state-of-the-art coastal and offshore engineering applications over this area make the adoption of medium- or high-resolution hindcast wave and wind models almost mandatory because of the complex coastal geometry, bathymetry, and orography that in turn lead to large variations of the design wave parameters even within small regions. The chains of nested meteorological and wave models used in this hindcast study belong to the ETA and WaveWatch III families, respectively. In this study the wind and wave numerical models have been run over the past 20 years, with increasing resolutions of the wave models from 0.2° up to 0.04°. The results presented herein have 0.1° resolution for both wind and wave models. The wave data obtained are compared with available measurements from 14 wave buoys in coastal zones in the Central and Western Mediterranean Sea.     

Development of Green-Naghdi models with a wave-absorbing beach for nonlinear, irregular wave propagation

Two-dimensional and three-dimensional Green-Naghdi (GN) models equipped with a numerical wave-absorbing beach have been developed to simulate nonlinear, regular, and irregular wave propagation. The numerical beach is introduced near the downstream boundary to absorb outgoing waves. An appropriate amount of numerical damping and an appropriate length of numerical beach are investigated using numerical experiments. The results show that the GN models with a numerical beach work very well in simulating wave propagation in water in a small computational domain.     

Managing Shoreline Change Under Increasing Sea-Level Rise in Ghana

Relative sea-level rise will affect vulnerable coastal communities globally. Quantifying this effect on the coastal environment and infrastructure provides critical information that enables coastal managers to develop sustainable mitigation and adaptation measures. Modeling applications have enabled the past, present, and future trends in shoreline morphology to be investigated in detail. Predictive numerical models depend largely on the reliability of the input data. This article reports on using the Soft Cliff and Platform Erosion (SCAPE) numerical model to simulate future shoreline evolution trend in the central Accra coast in Ghana. The model input parameters include historic shoreline recession rates, wave data, tidal data, bathymetry, beach volume, beach topography, historic relative sea-level rise rates, and the shoreline orientation. The data fed the SCAPE numerical model which simulated the emergence of soft rock shore profiles over timescale of decades to centuries, to project future positions of the central Accra shoreline for the next 100 years under different scenarios of climate change. Simulated future shoreline positions overlaid on a 2005 orthophoto map of Accra enabled vulnerable areas and infrastructure at risk to be identified. It emerged that a highly populated community in central Accra will be inundated by 2065, while the Rivera beach resort will be eroded from 2035. A natural fish landing site in Osu (suburb in Accra) will be lost from 2045. The study has demonstrated that considerable ecological, economic, social, and national losses should be expected within the next century. Shoreline change management options should be explored to help mitigate the expected impact of the sea-level rise.     

规则波作用下刚性植被海岸准静态平衡剖面试验

海岸植被作为新兴的生态护岸方式受到广泛关注。针对水动力要素对岸滩演变的作用,进行波浪及水深条件对植被岸滩准静态平衡剖面的影响规律研究。采用物理模型试验的方法,通过定性和定量分析,得出不同波高、不同周期规则波对植被岸滩平衡剖面的影响规律,以及波陡与岸滩无量纲尺寸的幂函数关系式和不同水深条件下各无量纲指标的变化趋势。结果显示,波高对平衡剖面的影响规律较明显,波周期及水深的影响规律性相对较弱;波陡与岸滩无量纲尺寸相关性良好,相对淤积尺寸的拟合结果优于冲刷尺度,小波陡区域拟合结果优于大波陡区域。     

历史台风天气图法推算海岸工程设计波要素*

对于海岸工程设计波要素可以应用多种方法进行推算,最理想的还是要依据所能取得的资料来选择合适的方法。采用历史台风天气图法推算海岸工程设计波要素,以如东人工岛设计波要素推算为例,利用该方法推求不同重现期设计波要素。结果表明,在缺少长期实测风数据的情况下,选择历史台风天气图推算法能推算工程区设计波要素,从而为工程提供设计依据。     

A Review of Beach Bye-Law Usage in Supporting Coastal Management in Ireland

Coastal areas are commonly the focus of a range of human activities and uses. Beaches are one example of multi-use coastal environments, accommodating activities linked to leisure and recreation, amenity, conservation and business, often simultaneously. Ireland is no different in this regard, as its beach resources provide a range of goods and services of societal value. Ireland has 16 coastal counties and their associated local authorities have a beach management remit, a role that can present a number of challenges. The use of beach bye-laws is one option to support management of beach environments by local authorities. Local authority personnel tasked with beach management from each coastal local authority were surveyed to assess the actual and potential role of beach bye-laws in contributing to more effective management of beach environments and to broader coastal management. Usage of beach bye-laws varied across local authority areas and evidence suggested that the efficacy, use, and implementation of beach bye-laws differed from county to county. Beach bye-laws offer potential but interaction with other initiatives as part of a wider program for coastal management may yield improved results.