Modelling of wave–current interactions at the mouths of the Danube

The target of the present study is the entrance to the Danube Delta in the Black Sea. The wave conditions in this coastal sector are usually significant from an energetic point of view and the relatively strong currents induced there by the outflow from the Danube lead to interactions between waves and currents. This process modifies considerably both the magnitude and direction waves, affecting also coastal navigation and sediment transport patterns. In order to assess the effects of the wave–current interactions, the simulating waves nearshore (SWAN) model was considered for developing a multilevel wave prediction system. Validations against measured data were carried out for each computational level. Five case studies corresponding to the most relevant patterns of the environmental matrix were analyzed. Finally, in order to assess the current effect for a longer timescale, an analysis concerning the variation of the main wave parameters was performed for a 3-month period considering some reference points. The results show that the currents produce considerable changes in the wave field, especially as regards the significant wave heights, mean wave directions and wavelengths. The Benjamin–Feir index was also estimated. The analysis of the variation induced by the current over this spectral shape parameter indicates that, in certain conditions, in the target area the wave heights cannot be considered Rayleigh distributed and freak waves may also occur.     

Effects of wave directionality and choice of wave spectrum on the extreme response of a deep water jacket

Wave-induced load effects in an idealized deep water jacket are considered. The structure is selected more to examine the worst effects of wave-induced uncertainties than to represent a realistic North Sea installation. The largest natural period is about 5 9 s and the structural response is significantly affected by dynamics. The structural system is linearized and response extremes are predicted by means of a stochastic, dynamic long term response analysis. A realistic modelling of ocean waves for long term response calculations is outlined. Various possibilities concerning the choice of wave spectrum are included and the corresponding effects on the predicted extremes are demonstrated. A sensitivity study is carried out both for the quasi-static response and for the resulting dynamic response. Finally, the effects of accounting for wave directionality are indicated. This includes both the introduction of a varying main wave direction and the modelling of the shortcrestedness for a given sea state.     

连云港外海含沙量推求及航道回淤预测

目前国内在研究淤泥质海岸航道回淤时,通常仅有近岸含沙量的实测资料,而外海含沙量较难获得。为此,建议可以利用实测的航道淤积、近岸含沙量等资料,根据刘家驹的航道回淤计算公式,近岸率定淤积系数,反推外海泥沙含量,据此进行航道回淤预测。经过连云港7万吨级进港航道验证,计算的航道回淤与实测值吻合较好,在此基础上,对拟建的连云港15万吨级航道回淤进行了预测。研究结果表明,所提出的方法切实可行,计算结果合理可信,可以作为相似条件下航道泥沙回淤计算的参考。     

自适应网格下的近岸波浪缓坡方程数值模型

在近岸变水深缓坡海域,充分考虑到波浪传播过程中的折射、绕射、反射以及波浪破碎等效应,采用引入破碎项的椭圆型缓坡方程,基于自适应四叉树网格建立了近岸波浪缓坡方程的数值模型,数值模型采用有限体积法求解。该网格可根据计算节点处波长与网格尺寸间的关系自动判定是否进行网格加密划分,使之适应椭圆型缓坡方程每个波长范围内至少布置8个计算节点的特征,提高计算精度的同时又能提高计算效率。采用已有的物理模型试验和实测资料对数值模型进行了验证。结果表明,该模型可以有效地模拟近岸变水深缓坡海域波浪传播。     

Prediction of wave parameters by using fuzzy inference system and the parametric models along the south coasts of the Black Sea

Forecasting of sea-state characteristics has a great importance in coastal and ocean engineering studies. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate performances of Adaptive-Network-Based Fuzzy Inference System (ANFIS) and several parametric methods in the Black Sea. For this purpose, different fuzzy models with different input combinations were developed for two different wind data sources (TSMS and ECMWF) at two offshore buoy stations. It also aimed to apply several approaches to event-based data sets for wave predictions. Generally, in literature the tendency is to use time series data for wave predictions. In this kind of prediction approach, lagged time series data are taken as inputs and current or future variables are taken as output. In this study, event-based data for each independent storm were extracted from time series data. Simultaneous or concurrent data of wind speed, blowing duration, fetch length and wave characteristics were detected for each single storm. These event data were then used to set up models. The hindcast results were validated with significant wave height and mean wave period data recorded in Hopa and Sinop buoy stations. The performance of developed fuzzy models were also compared with that of four different parametric methods (Wilson, SPM, Jonswap, and CEM methods) applied for two wind data sources at both buoy stations. Finally, it was determined that in the prediction of both wave parameters (H _s and T _z) the ANFIS models (R = 0.66, squared correlation coefficient, and MAE = 0.37 m, mean absolute error, for the best model in prediction of H _s) were more accurate than the parametric methods (R = 0.63 and MAE = 0.75 m for the best model in prediction of H _s).     

桁架式Spar平台在波浪中的运动预报与实验测量

基于细长体水动力公式和刚体全非线性运动方程,以及桁架式Spar平台主体与其锚泊系统相互耦合的力和位移边界条件,建立了桁架式Spar平台在波浪中的运动响应预报模型,对其在波浪中的运动和锚泊力进行了预报。通过运动光学测量系统和拉力传感器在哈尔滨工程大学水池对Spar平台模型在波浪中的运动和锚泊力进行了测量。数值预报结果和实验测量进行了比较,结果表明二者符合得很好。     

边界适应曲线网格在天文潮、风暴潮数值模拟中的应用

采用曲线坐标系下的准三维近岸流波流耦合数值模型,采用边界适应曲线计算网格和两层嵌套方法,设计一套简单实用的天文潮预报系统,并引入风场以及考虑天文潮和风暴潮之间非线性作用的开边界水位,对2003年渤海发生的一次温带风暴潮进行模拟,计算结果与实测潮位吻合较好。     

改进的海浪波包谱

结合实测波浪资料对描述波浪群性的主要特征参数进行了统计和相关性分析,结果表明波群的高度特征和长度特征之间相关性较弱。在此基础上根据渤海和珠江口两地的波浪观测数据,采用合理的无因次化方式,拟合得到一个适于风浪的波包谱经验公式。该公式同时考虑了群高与群长两方面的因素,只要给出波要素和波群的特征参数便可确定波包谱形,便于应用,根据对实测资料波群参数的分析结果,与俞聿修等人先前建议的波包谱公式相比,该公式中给出了更合理的参数取值原则。     

SWAN在台湾海峡台风浪场数值模拟中的应用研究

简要介绍了波浪模式的发展及应用较为广泛的几种第三代能量谱海浪模式的特点。为了研究台湾海峡台风浪场的分布特征,以0903号"莲花"台风为例,选取第三代能量谱海浪模式SWAN,充分考虑底摩擦、风、白浪破碎、波波非线性相互作用、波浪浅化效应等物理过程,模拟了该海域的台风浪场的分布特征。将模拟结果与实测波浪、风资料对比分析,结果表明风速、有效波高计算值与实际值符合性较好,SWAN模式在海域的适应性良好。     

削角直立堤断面稳定性及波浪力分析试验研究

通过模型试验观测波浪作用下削角直立堤断面的稳定性、堤顶越浪情况及削角直立堤受力情况,并与依据《海港水文规范》和《防波堤设计与施工规范》计算的波浪力理论值进行了对比分析,结果表明,上部结构采用削角型胸墙的直立堤具有减轻波浪水平压力,增加竖向压力,提高堤身稳定的优点。并通过实测波浪力的合成总力计算,得出了削角直立堤断面整体稳定。     

An insight into the slamming behaviour of large high-speed catamarans through full-scale measurements

The slamming behaviour of a large high-speed catamaran has been investigated through the analysis of full-scale trials data. The US Navy conducted the trials in the North Sea and North Atlantic region on a 98 m wave piercer catamaran, HSV-2 Swift, designed by Revolution Design Pty Ltd and built by Incat Tasmania. For varying wave headings, vessel speeds and sea states the data records were interrogated to identify slam events. An automatic slam identification algorithm was developed, considering the measured rate of change of stress in the ship’s structure coupled with the vessel’s pitch motion. This has allowed the slam occurrence rates to be found for a range of conditions and the influence of vessel speed, wave environment and heading to be determined. The slam events have been further characterised by assessing the relative vertical velocity at impact between the vessel and the wave. Since the ship was equipped with a ride control system, its influence on the slam occurrence rates has also been assessed.     

小波变换在风浪研究中的应用

基于小波理论,将实测波高与压力资料减去平均值作为修正后的资料,经小波变换所得系数再将它平方,可以得出能量密度在时间域和频率域上的三维分布特性。将三维分布图对时间积分后,再除以总延时,可以得到波浪与压力在频率上的平均能量,即传统傅立叶变换所得之波谱,对时间积分,可得各瞬间波浪与压力总能量。通过应用认为小波分析在波浪研究上有广阔的应用前景。     

渤海波浪地理信息系统的建立

随着地理信息系统(GIS)的广泛应用,建立一个具有波浪预报或后报功能的信息系统为工程建设服务,不仅十分必要,而且随着波浪模拟技术的发展变得可能。文中论述了采用第三代波浪模型中的SWAN(SimulatingWAves Nearshore)来模拟渤海波浪场,在获得较长时间波浪模拟结果的基础上,对渤海波浪地理信息系统的建立进行了一些尝试和探索。这些波浪资料对于港口及海洋工程是十分必要的。     

Surface chlorophyll in the Black Sea over 1978–1986 derived from satellite and in situ data

Absolute values of chlorophyll a concentration and its spatial and seasonal variations in the Black Sea were assessed by using satellite CZCS and in situ data. Since the satellite CZCS had operated for the 1978–1986 period, CZCS data was used for assessing the past state of the Black Sea just before the onset of drastic changes observed in late 1980s. The approach used for the calculation of the absolute values of chlorophyll a concentration from CZCS data was based on the direct comparison of in situ chlorophyll a data and those of CZCS and by applying the algorithm developed for the transformation of CZCS data into chlorophyll a values. CZCS Level 2 data related with pigment concentration having a spatial resolution of 1 km at nadir were used. The daily Level 3 files were derived by binning Level 2 values into 4-km grid cells and the monthly and seasonal Level 3 files were created by averaging the daily Level 3 files over the corresponding period. In situ chlorophyll a data were obtained by spectrophotometric and fluorometric methods in 15 scientific cruises over the 1978–1986 period. Total number of ship-measured data used for the comparison with those CZCS values was 590.Chlorophyll a concentration (Chl) was derived from CZCS values (C) with regression equations Chl=kC; the coefficient of transformation k was calculated from six different data sets by taking into account distinctions between subregions and seasons. The reasons for difference in the k values have been analyzed.Statistical comparison of the chlorophyll a values measured in situ and those derived from CZCS data was based on log-transformed data and gave the following results: regression SLOPE=0.842, regression INTERCEPT=−0.081, coefficient of determination (R²)=0.806, root–mean–square ERROR=0.195. The mean monthly chlorophyll a distributions derived from CZCS data over 1978–1986 have been constructed and the mean seasonal chlorophyll a values in different regions have been calculated and analyzed. The significant difference in chlorophyll concentration between the western shelf regions and the open part of the Black Sea has been demonstrated, especially in warm season. At almost all seasons, the highest chlorophyll concentration is observed in the western interior shelf region which is under strong influence of Danube. The summer mean chlorophyll concentration in this region is 18 times higher than that in the open parts and about nine times higher than in the eastern shelf region. The greatest seasonal variations are observed in the open part of the Black Sea: chlorophyll concentration in cold season is four to six times higher than in summer and three to five times higher than in April and October. To the contrary, in the western interior shelf regions, the concentration is higher in May–October (about twice than that in November–March). Seasonal variations in the western outer shelf regions are smoothed out as compared with both the western interior shelf and the open regions.     

Adaptability and vulnerability of zooplankton species in the adjacent regions of the Black and Marmara Seas

During 2005–2008 species composition, abundance patterns, natural mortality rates and salinity effects on zooplankton were studied in the Bosphorus regions of the Black and Marmara Seas. The tendencies to diminish for abundance and biomass of the Black Sea originated zooplankton species and to increase for the proportion of their carcasses in the direction from the Black Sea toward the Marmara Sea were found. The mortality in the Black Sea species increased with depth in the Marmara Sea. The contribution of organic matter of carcasses of the Black Sea originated organisms to bacterial processes in the deep strata of the Marmara Sea was estimated. Different salinity and temperature regimes restrict mutual penetration of the species in these seas.     

海洋浮式平台气隙的数值预报

以海洋浮式平台为研究对象,运用三维势流理论结合半经验Morison方程的方法计算了规则波下的水动力系数以及运动响应传递函数,并运用短期预报方法对平台气隙进行了分析。研究结果表明,其水动力性能与波浪频率密切相关,平台的气隙短期预报显示波浪在浮箱首尾部分负气隙严重,即有强烈的波浪砰击现象,平台结构设计时要充分考虑到该区域的波浪砰击载荷。     

多点系泊定位FDPSO船体水动力性能数值模拟和模型试验研究(英文)

由于中国南海海域海况十分恶劣,浮式钻井生产储油轮(FDPSO,Floating,Drilling,Production,Storage and Offloading vessel)定位方式的研究是海洋工程界值得关注的课题。文章采用数值模拟和模型试验的方法对多点系泊FDPSO水动力性能开展研究。数值模拟包括FDPSO船体频域水动力性能计算和船体/锚链时域耦合分析。船体频域水动力性能计算得到了水动力系数,波浪力和运动幅值响应算子;时域耦合数值分析得到了中国南海海域一年一遇海况和百年一遇海况下船体六自由度运动时历。模型试验在上海交通大学海洋工程深水池开展,包括静水衰减试验,白噪声试验和不规则波试验。对数值计算结果和模型试验结果进行了比较,验证了数值结果的准确性,并对多点系泊FDPSO在中国南海海域的水动力性能进行了研究。     

基于马尔可夫链的极值波高预测

本文研究了由日最大波高系列估算设计极值波高时，相邻日最大波高间的相关性对极值预测的影响，从日最大波高系列遵从马尔可夫链的假定出发，考虑到国内外经常采用对数一正态分布的韦布尔分布拟合波高长期分布的现实，本文用解析法求解了对数一正态分布情况下的极值预测。同时，对解析法难以求解的非正态随机变量情况（如韦布尔分布），用计算机随机模拟方法求解其极值预测，用上述两种方法对北大西洋和北海有关日最大波高系列的预测     

Estimation of extreme significant wave heights and the associated uncertainties: A case study using NORA10 hindcast data for the Barents Sea

The reliability of an offshore structure is dependent on its response to the extreme wave climate; therefore, an adequate knowledge of the wave climate at a location is a prerequisite during design as well as in marine operations. This study aims to contribute to the knowledge of the extreme wave climate in the Norwegian Sector of the Barents Sea, using wave hindcast datasets from the Norwegian Reanalysis 10 km (NORA10) database for four locations.We have considered three commonly used methods for the estimation of extreme wave heights, that is, the initial distribution method, the peak over threshold method, and the annual maxima method. The parametric bootstrap concept is considered in the estimation of the epistemic uncertainty related to sample size. The estimated 100-year significant wave heights obtained from the three methods differ, and the degree of variability in the estimates varies, depending on the dataset. The epistemic uncertainty due to sample size is wider when considering the annual maxima method.The estimates obtained from the three methods show the importance of considering different methods and their associated uncertainties when estimating extreme wave values for design. While it is difficult to single out the best method among the three, the estimated values give knowledge of the possible range of the extreme significant wave heights at the locations. Generally, the datasets considered in this study suggest that the wave climate is less harsh further north compared to the southern region of the Barents Sea. The datasets do not suggest any temporal trends in the historical significant wave heights at any of the locations.     

Multigrid state vector for data assimilation in a two-way nested model of the Ligurian Sea

A system of two nested models composed by a coarse resolution model of the Mediterranean Sea, an intermediate resolution model of the Provençal Basin and a high resolution model of the Ligurian Sea is coupled with a Kalman-filter based assimilation method. The state vector for the data assimilation is composed by the temperature, salinity and elevation of the three models. The forecast error is estimated by an ensemble run of 200 members by perturbing initial condition and atmospheric forcings. The 50 dominant empirical orthogonal functions (EOF) are taken as the error covariance of the model forecast. This error covariance is assumed to be constant in time. Sea surface temperature (SST) and sea surface height (SSH) are assimilated in this system.