Variation of whitecap coverage with wave-field conditions

Field observations were carried out at a sea observation tower to investigate how whitecap coverage on the ocean surface responds to wave-field conditions. Images of whitecaps were taken for every 4 h or 7 h in the daytime using a 3CCD digital video camera fixed at 14 m elevation, and they were stored automatically in a hard disk video recorder at a time interval of 1 s. The determination of whitecap coverage was made by means of a digital image processing. The 1/3 power of whitecap coverage increases linearly with increasing the 10-m neutral wind speed. On the basis of the deflection angle between the propagating directions of wind waves and swell, wave-field conditions are classified into four cases. The present results show that whitecaps are produced most actively under the condition of the pure windsea and they tend to be suppressed by the presence of swell. It is difficult to find a certain relation between the deflection angle and whitecap coverage. Whitecap coverage also increases with the wave age in the same wind-speed conditions.     

印尼ADIPALA海域较长周期波浪谱分析

波浪谱是进行海岸工程设计的重要基础,不同海区、不同周期的波浪谱特性不同,因此有必要对于实际海上观测波浪的谱特性进行分析研究。针对在印尼海岸观测的较长周期波浪数据进行了波浪谱分析,给出谱特征参数与海浪统计特征值之间的关系。并基于JONSWAP谱型,对实测波浪谱进行拟合,得出适用于该海域的波浪谱公式,研究成果可为实际工程设计提供重要的参考。     

An approach to estimation of near-surface turbulence and CO2 transfer velocity from remote sensing data

The air–sea CO₂ exchange is primarily determined by the boundary-layer processes in the near-surface layer of the ocean since it is a water-side limited gas. As a consequence, the interfacial component of the CO₂ transfer velocity can be linked to parameters of turbulence in the near-surface layer of the ocean. The development of remote sensing techniques provides a possibility to quantify the dissipation of the turbulent kinetic energy in the near-surface layer of the ocean and the air–sea CO₂ transfer velocity on a global scale. In this work, the dissipation rate of the turbulent kinetic energy in the near-surface layer of the ocean and its patchiness has been linked to the air–sea CO₂ transfer velocity with a boundary-layer type model. Field observations of upper ocean turbulence, laboratory studies, and the direct CO₂ flux measurements are used to validate the model. The model is then forced with the TOPEX POSEIDON wind speed and significant wave height to demonstrate its applicability for estimating the distribution of the near-surface turbulence dissipation rate and gas transfer velocity for an extended (decadal) time period. A future version of this remote sensing algorithm will incorporate directional wind/wave data being available from QUIKSCAT, a now-cast wave model, and satellite heat fluxes. The inclusion of microwave imagery from the Special Sensor Microwave Imager (SSM/I) and the Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) will provide additional information on the fractional whitecap coverage and sea surface turbulence patchiness.     

潮间带风电场水动力数值模拟

为研究江苏省某地滨海潮间带风电场工程对所在海域波浪、潮流的影响,通过ADCIRC潮流模型和SWAN风浪模型模拟风、浪、流的耦合作用,建立滨海潮间带风电场的水动力数学模型,计算结果表明:该数学模型能较客观地反映当地水流和波浪场的基本情况,对在该区域建设滨海风电场具有重要的参考意义。     

An idealized model of interaction between fronds of the large seaweed Durvillaea antarctica

The effect of interactions between individual fronds in a bed of the large intertidal seaweed Durvillaea antarctica, when forced by breaking waves, is studied using a computational model. The model simulates the response of a seaweed bed using a sequence of connected oscillators which are excited by a propagating forcing function representing a breaking ocean wave. Two new facets of the interplay between seaweeds and hydrodynamics are considered: (i) wave forcing due to breaking waves is often not sinusoidal in the rocky intertidal zone and (ii) a frond interaction term is included. The addition of frond interaction reduces the maximum loading on individuals within the bed by around 30% using estimated biomechanical parameters. The rate of change of the loading on the holdfast (equivalent to the “jerk”) is affected in a similar or greater fashion.     

Experimental study on the nonlinear pressure acting on a high-speed vessel in irregular waves

The present study focuses on the nonlinear behavior of pressure on the hull surface of a high-speed vessel in irregular waves, particularly the pressure responses of alternately wet and dry areas near the waterline and on the bow zone. The vessel has high deadrise angles that may be subject to slight impact and water pile-up effects. A series of experiments in regular and irregular head waves were conducted, and the validity of applying Volterra modeling was investigated. In a previous article using experimental data in regular waves, it was confirmed that the approximate third-order Volterra model adequately simulated the variation of pressure responses in regular waves of different steepness up to a wave amplitude with a wavelength ratio of 0.01, even for the highly nonlinear pressures acting on the abovementioned areas of the hull surface. In this article, further validation for the second part of the study was obtained using experimental data in irregular waves. The frequency response functions obtained from the previous study’s experimental data in regular waves were applied to the third-order Volterra model by combining the input of irregular waves to simulate the responses in irregular waves of sea state five. Then, the spectra and statistics were analyzed. For the motions, accelerations, and pressure responses in irregular waves (as well as for the simulated time histories) variance spectra and statistics such as cumulative distributions of peak values and probability density functions were compared with the experimental results. It was confirmed that even for highly nonlinear and non-Gaussian pressures on the abovementioned areas of the hull surface, the approximate third-order Volterra model simulates the pressure responses in irregular head waves up to a sea state of five with adequate accuracy on deterministic and statistical bases.     

近岸波浪变形数值模型的比较研究

外海深水区的波浪传播到近岸浅水区时,受到岛屿、地形与建筑物等影响,发生折射、绕射、反射和破碎等一系列变形。准确计算近岸与港内波浪分布,成为港口与海岸工程研究的重要课题。文章在总结波浪数值模拟发展现状的基础上,对目前常用的基于椭圆型缓坡方程的CGWAVE模型、基于Boussinesq方程的MIKE21-BW模型和基于动谱平衡方程的SWAN模型进行了比较研究。     

中国内海台风浪传播和演化过程数值模拟

基于波作用量守恒方程建立我国内海台风浪生成与传播的模型。用谱峰周期来界定涌浪,通过对全区域的典型台风浪过程的模拟计算,分析了内海台风浪时、空分布特征和演化过程。研究表明:台风登陆后,从能量扩散速度判断,应经历能量由高频向低频转化的过程(易形成长周期波浪),均可传播到渤海海域。生成长周期波浪后,波能衰减速度显著减慢,长周期波浪可在我国北方海域生存2 d以上。涌浪在台风登陆之后的传播速度很快,为50～60 km/h,涌浪传播速度在我国内海可以达到台风中心运动速度的2倍左右。     

Perceptions of the performance of state coastal zone management programs in the United States. II. Regional and state comparisons

A mail survey of coastal user groups, academics, and state coastal zone management program managers was conducted to determine the perceptions of the performance of state coastal zone management programs relative to the protection of coastal resources, the management of coastal development, the improvement of public access, and the management of coastal hazards. Information on the perceived importance of the selected issues to each of the 24 states being studied was also solicited. Findings on the perceptions of various categories of interest groups, academics, and program managers with respect to the overall performance of state coastal zone management programs in the four issue areas were presented in an earlier article, “Perceptions of the Performance of State Coastal Zone Management Programs in the United States”; (Knecht et al., 1996). The present article draws on a subset of these data—the responses from the coastal user groups and the academics—and presents the findings at the regional and individual state level. In terms of perceived performance of state coastal zone management programs on a regional basis relative to the selected issue areas, the highest rating went to the Great Lakes region for its management of public access. However, the North Atlantic region received the highest performance rating for the three other issue areas: protection of coastal resources, management of coastal development, and management of coastal hazards. Looking at state performance with regard to the coastal issues judged to be of most importance to the states—the protection of coastal resources and the management of coastal development—respondents indicated that states should improve their performance in both areas, with the greatest need related to the management of coastal development. Overall, the states of the North Atlantic, Great Lakes, and South Atlantic regions were perceived to be performing somewhat better relative to the four issue areas than the states in the Pacific and Gulf of Mexico regions. While the data do not shed light on the reasons for these regional differences, we suggest that, in the case of the Pacific region at least, the differences could be associated with higher expectations among the resident population with regard to environmental quality in general and coastal management in particular.     

Response of coastal zone management programs to sea level rise in the United States

Abstract

State coastal zone management programs are responding to the potential impacts of accelerated sea level rise through a wide range of activities and policies. This article provides a brief overview of the Coastal Zone Management Act and other federal laws that provide the basis for coastal state regulatory activities. It surveys the level of response to sea level rise by state coastal management programs in 24 marines coastal states, from formal recognition to implementation of policies addressing the issue. Individual state CZMP responses and policies that have been implemented or proposed are categorized. The adaptation of sea level rise to ongoing institutional objectives is discussed and policy constraints and trends are summarized.     

Long-term sea surface temperature baselines—time series, spatial covariation and implications for biological processes

Coastal areas such as estuaries, bays and fjords usually have hydrographic characteristics (e.g., temperature, salinity) which differ from those at larger spatial scales and in offshore areas. The differences can arise if the areas are subject to different climatic forcing or if they are relatively isolated from each other due to topographic and ocean circulation features which inhibit advective inputs of water mass properties. Local differences in hydrographic conditions can therefore potentially limit the applicability of existing long time series of coastally monitored temperatures for addressing questions at large spatial scales, such as the response of species distributions and phenologies to climate change. In this study we investigate the spatial synchrony of long-term sea surface temperatures in the North Sea–Baltic Sea region as measured daily at four coastal sites (Marsdiep, Netherlands; Torungen, Norway; Skagens Reef, Denmark; and Christiansø, Denmark) and in several large offshore areas. All time series, including two series reconstructed and intercalibrated for this study (Skagens Reef and Christiansø, Denmark), began during 1861–1880 and continue until at least 2001. Temperatures at coastal sites co-varied strongly with each other and with opportunistically measured offshore temperatures despite separation distances between measuring locations of 20–1200 km. This covariance is probably due to the influence of large-scale atmospheric processes on regional temperatures and is consistent with the known correlation radius of atmospheric fluctuations (ca. 1000 km). Differences (e. g, long-term trends, amplitude of seasonal variations) between coastal temperatures and those measured in adjacent offshore areas varied nonrandomly over time and were often significantly autocorrelated up to 2 years. These differences suggest that spatial variations in physical oceanographic phenomena and sampling heterogeneities associated with opportunistic sampling could affect perceptions of biological responses to temperature fluctuations. The documentation that the coastally measured temperatures co-vary with those measured opportunistically in offshore areas suggests that the coastal data, which have been measured daily using standardized methods and instruments, contain much of the variability seen at larger spatial scales. We conclude that both types of time series can facilitate assessments of how species and ecosystems have responded to past temperature changes and how they may react to future temperature changes.     

Effect of Sea Level Rise and Offshore Wave Height Change on Nearshore Waves and Coastal Structures

In 1994, Townend proposed a method to calculate the relative changes in various wave characteristics and structure-related parameters due to sea level rise for regular waves. The method was extended to irregular waves by Cheon and Suh in 2016. In this study, this method is further extended to include the effect of future change in offshore wave height and the sea level rise. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height in nearshore area are presented as functions of the relative changes in water depth and offshore wave height. The calculated relative changes in wave characteristics are then used to estimate the effect of sea level rise and offshore wave height change on coastal structures by calculating the relative changes in wave run-up height, overtopping discharge, crest freeboard, and armor weight of the structures. The relative changes in wave characteristics and structure-related parameters are all expressed as a function of the relative water depth for various combinations of the relative changes in water depth and offshore wave height.     

海平面升高和离岸波高改变对近岸波浪和海岸结构的影响（英文）

In 1994, Townend proposed a method to calculate the relative changes in various wave characteristics and structure-related parameters due to sea level rise for regular waves. The method was extended to irregular waves by Cheon and Suh in 2016. In this study, this method is further extended to include the effect of future change in offshore wave height and the sea level rise. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height in nearshore area are presented as functions of the relative changes in water depth and offshore wave height. The calculated relative changes in wave characteristics are then used to estimate the effect of sea level rise and offshore wave height change on coastal structures by calculating the relative changes in wave run-up height, overtopping discharge, crest freeboard, and armor weight of the structures. The relative changes in wave characteristics and structure-related parameters are all expressed as a function of the relative water depth for various combinations of the relative changes in water depth and offshore wave height.     

Distribution of suspended sediment in the coastal sea off the Ganges–Brahmaputra River mouth: observation from TM data

Remote sensing technique was applied to estimate suspended sediment concentration (SSC) and to understand transportation, distribution and deposition of suspended sediment in the estuary and throughout the coastal sea, off the Ganges–Brahmaputra River mouth. During low river discharge period, zone of turbidity maximum is inferred in the estuary near the shore. SSC map shows that maximum SSC reaches 1050 mg/l in this period. Magnitude of SSC is mainly owing to resuspension of the bottom surface sediments induced by tidal currents flowing over shallow water depths. The influence of depth on resuspension is farther revealed from the distribution and magnitude of SSC along the head of Swatch of No Ground (SNG) submarine canyon. During high river discharge period, huge river outflow pushed the salt wedge and flashes away the suspended sediments in the coastal sea off the river mouth. Zone of turbidity maximum is inferred in the coastal water approximately within 5–10 m depth of water, where the maximum SSC reaches 1700 mg/l. In this period, huge fluvial input of the suspended sediments including the resuspended bottom sediments and the particles remaining in suspension for longer period of time since their initial entry control mainly the magnitude of SSC. In the estuary near the shore, seasonal variation in the magnitude of SSC is not evident. In the coastal sea (>5 m water depth), seasonal influence in the magnitude of SSC could be concluded from the discrepancy between SSC values of two different seasons. Transportation and deposition of suspended sediments also experiences seasonal variations. At present, suspended sediments are being accumulated on the shallow shelf (between 5 and 10 m water depth) in low discharge period and on the mid-shelf (between 10 and 75 m water depth) during high discharge period. An empirical (exponential) relationship was found between gradual settle down of suspended sediments in the coastal sea and its lateral distance from the turbidity maximum.     

近岛礁地形影响下的浮式平台运动响应

近岛礁附近的地形一般呈现高低不平的状态,水深从几十米到几米不等。远场波浪向近岸传递过来时在礁盘上会经过复杂的演化,使得浮体附近的波浪呈现一定的非均匀性,不同于常规的长峰规则波,同时礁盘的起伏变化会对波浪中的浮体的运动产生影响,最终使得浮体在复杂地形下的水动力运动响应不同于一般均一水深下的浮体响应。该文通过建立浮体和礁盘地形的耦合水动力模型,计算了礁盘对浮体入射波力、绕射力、辐射水动力系数以及运动的影响,同时与水池模型试验对比了浮体运动,两者较为一致。研究表明复杂地形对浮体的水动力运动存在较大的影响,在某些周期附近会增大浮体的运动响应,因此需要理性考虑复杂地形对浮体的影响。     

广东雷州电厂近岸沉积特征及泥沙运动

通过对广东雷州电厂海岸动力地貌进行调查,分析研究了厂址及周边海岸冲刷、堆积或平衡等不同地貌形态特征、岸线冲蚀形态、泥沙运动及海岸演变对电厂取排水深的影响。分析结果表明,水下沉积物以粉砂质粘土和粘土质粉砂分布为主,样品的平均中值粒径为0.0102mm,南部区域略粗于北中区域,从沉积物分布特点和趋势看,近岸与河口区物质偏粗,主要受近岸及河流的影响;而距岸不远的沉积泥沙中值粒径均在0.004mm左右,则明显受海向沉积泥沙的影响。由于工程区处于岬角且泥沙来源数量少,受波浪潮流共同作用,电厂工程区水域海床及岸线多年处于冲淤平衡的基本稳定状态。     

Parameterization of air–sea gas fluxes at extreme wind speeds

Air–sea flux measurements of O₂ and N₂ obtained during Hurricane Frances in September 2004 [D'Asaro, E. A. and McNeil, C. L., 2006. Measurements of air–sea gas exchange at extreme wind speeds. Journal Marine Systems, this edition.] using air-deployed neutrally buoyant floats reveal the first evidence of a new regime of air–sea gas transfer occurring at wind speeds in excess of 35 m s^− 1. In this regime, plumes of bubbles 1 mm and smaller in size are transported down from near the surface of the ocean to greater depths by vertical turbulent currents with speeds up to 20−30 cm s^− 1. These bubble plumes mostly dissolve before reaching a depth of approximately 20 m as a result of hydrostatic compression. Injection of air into the ocean by this mechanism results in the invasion of gases in proportion to their tropospheric molar gas ratios, and further supersaturation of less soluble gases. A new formulation for air–sea fluxes of weakly soluble gases as a function of wind speed is proposed to extend existing formulations [Woolf, D.K, 1997. Bubbles and their role in gas exchange. In: Liss, P.S., and Duce, R.A., (Eds.), The Sea Surface and Global Change. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, UK, pp. 173–205.] to span the entire natural range of wind speeds over the open ocean, which includes hurricanes. The new formulation has separate contributions to air–sea gas flux from: 1) non-supersaturating near-surface equilibration processes, which include direct transfer associated with the air–sea interface and ventilation associated with surface wave breaking; 2) partial dissolution of bubbles smaller than 1 mm that mix into the ocean via turbulence; and 3) complete dissolution of bubbles of up to 1 mm in size via subduction of bubble plumes. The model can be simplified by combining “surface equilibration” terms that allow exchange of gases into and out of the ocean, and “gas injection” terms that only allow gas to enter the ocean. The model was tested against the Hurricane Frances data set. Although all the model parameters cannot be determined uniquely, some features are clear. The fluxes due to the surface equilibration terms, estimated both from data and from model inversions, increase rapidly at high wind speed but are still far below those predicted using the cubic parameterization of Wanninkhof and McGillis [Wannikhof, R. and McGillis, W.R., 1999. A cubic relationship between air–sea CO₂ exchange and wind speed. Geophysical Research Letters, 26:1889–1892.] at high wind speed. The fluxes due to gas injection terms increase with wind speed even more rapidly, causing bubble injection to dominate at the highest wind speeds.     

存在底部起伏影响的近壁面处双层多孔栅栏陷波研究（英文）

Trapping of oblique surface gravity waves by dual porous barriers near a wall is studied in the presence of step type varying bottom bed that is connected on both sides by water of uniform depths. The porous barriers are assumed to be fixed at a certain distance in front of a vertical rigid wall. Using linear water wave theory and Darcy's law for flow past porous structure, the physical problem is converted into a boundary value problem. Using eigenfunction expansion in the uniform bottom bed region and modified mild-slope equation in the varying bottom bed region, the mathematical problem is handled for solution. Moreover, certain jump conditions are used to account for mass conservation at slope discontinuities in the bottom bed profile. To understand the effect of dual porous barriers in creating tranquility zone and minimum load on the sea wall, reflection coefficient, wave forces acting on the barrier and the wall, and surface wave elevation are computed and analyzed for different values of depth ratio, porous-effect parameter, incident wave angle, gap between the barriers and wall and slope length of undulated bottom. The study reveals that with moderate porosity and suitable gap between barriers and sea wall, using dual barriers an effective wave trapping system can be developed which will exert less wave force on the barriers and the rigid wall. The proposed wave trapping system is likely to be of immense help for protecting various facilities/infrastructures in coastal environment.     

Application of new parameterizations of gas transfer velocity and their impact on regional and global marine CO2 budgets

One of the dominant sources of uncertainty in the calculation of air–sea flux of carbon dioxide on a global scale originates from the various parameterizations of the gas transfer velocity, k, that are in use. Whilst it is undisputed that most of these parameterizations have shortcomings and neglect processes which influence air–sea gas exchange and do not scale with wind speed alone, there is no general agreement about their relative accuracy.The most widely used parameterizations are based on non-linear functions of wind speed and, to a lesser extent, on sea surface temperature and salinity. Processes such as surface film damping and whitecapping are known to have an effect on air–sea exchange. More recently published parameterizations use friction velocity, sea surface roughness, and significant wave height. These new parameters can account to some extent for processes such as film damping and whitecapping and could potentially explain the spread of wind-speed based transfer velocities published in the literature.We combine some of the principles of two recently published k parameterizations [Glover, D.M., Frew, N.M., McCue, S.J. and Bock, E.J., 2002. A multiyear time series of global gas transfer velocity from the TOPEX dual frequency, normalized radar backscatter algorithm. In: Donelan, M.A., Drennan, W.M., Saltzman, E.S., and Wanninkhof, R. (Eds.), Gas Transfer at Water Surfaces, Geophys. Monograph 127. AGU,Washington, DC, 325–331; Woolf, D.K., 2005. Parameterization of gas transfer velocities and sea-state dependent wave breaking. Tellus, 57B: 87–94] to calculate k as the sum of a linear function of total mean square slope of the sea surface and a wave breaking parameter. This separates contributions from direct and bubble-mediated gas transfer as suggested by Woolf [Woolf, D.K., 2005. Parameterization of gas transfer velocities and sea-state dependent wave breaking. Tellus, 57B: 87–94] and allows us to quantify contributions from these two processes independently.We then apply our parameterization to a monthly TOPEX altimeter gridded 1.5° × 1.5° data set and compare our results to transfer velocities calculated using the popular wind-based k parameterizations by Wanninkhof [Wanninkhof, R., 1992. Relationship between wind speed and gas exchange over the ocean. J. Geophys. Res., 97: 7373–7382.] and Wanninkhof and McGillis [Wanninkhof, R. and McGillis, W., 1999. A cubic relationship between air−sea CO2 exchange and wind speed. Geophys. Res. Lett., 26(13): 1889–1892]. We show that despite good agreement of the globally averaged transfer velocities, global and regional fluxes differ by up to 100%. These discrepancies are a result of different spatio-temporal distributions of the processes involved in the parameterizations of k, indicating the importance of wave field parameters and a need for further validation.