不规则波在斜坡地形破碎区波高分布的数值试验研究

在近岸浅水波浪分布的研究中,格鲁霍夫斯基给出适用于深水波至破碎波的整个浅水域(相对水深η>2)的波高经验分布公式,但该式在波浪发生破碎后的适用性研究欠缺。基于FLOW-3D软件对深水不规则波传播到斜坡地形上波浪发生破碎进行模拟,验证波高沿程分布与试验值的一致性,并模拟在130斜坡地形条件下波浪从有限水深传播到近岸破碎区的沿程波高分布变化。结果表明,在该坡度相对水深η<2.75情况下,格鲁霍夫斯基经验分布公式出现较大误差,不再适用;破碎区各累积率波高与平均波高的比值随相对水深变小呈递减趋势,经验公式值与之相比,总体上呈现出大波偏大、小波偏小的情况。

Numerical experiment study on wave height distribution of irregular wave in slope topography breaking area

On the study of wave distribution in shallow water near the shore,Grukhovsky gives an empirical wave height distribution formula from deep-water to the entire shallow water area(η>2),but the applicability study of the formula after wave breaking is lacking.Based on FLOW-3D software,we carry out a simulation of deep-water irregular wave propagating to slope topography breaking area,verify the consistency between the wave height distribution along the path with the test value,and simulate the change of wave height distribution along the way when the wave propagates from the finite water depth to the near shore breaking area under the condition of slope topography of 130.The results show that under the condition of this slope and the relative water depthη<2.75,there is a large error and the empirical formula is inapplicable.The ratio of each cumulative rate wave height to the average wave height in the breaking area shows a decreasing trend as the relative water depth becomes smaller.The values of the empirical formula compare with the numerical experiment values,these of the big wave are larger and these of the wavelet are smaller.