波生近岸流的数学模型研究

在理论上和数值技术上对已有的基于辐射应力理论的波生近岸流数学模型进行了改进,(1)使用考虑非线性作用的多向不规则波联合折射绕射数学模型确定波浪场,以期波场计算更加准确;(2)根据Dally等的研究成果,在波生流运动方程中加入破波切应力作用项,在辐射应力公式中加入了卷破波和波动Stokes漂流(Stokes drift)造成的向岸质量通量项,以期在破碎带内运动方程和辐射应力更为合理;(3)建立了基于两种网格的两套数学模型,即三角形网格有限差分数学模型和矩形网格有限差分数学模型,基于这两种网格的数学模型能满足近岸波生流场的模拟需要。就一模型海区对该文的模型进行了应用。

Study on Mathematical Model of Wave-induced Nearshore Current

The mathematical model of wave-induced neashore current is improved both in theory and in numerical simulation technique. Work in three aspects has been done: ( 1) The multi-directional irregular wave refraction-diffraction mathematical model taking account of nonlinear effect is used to calculate wave field to make the wave filed more accurate; (2) According to the research results of Dally and Osiecki, the stresses duo to rollers in breaking waves are added to the momentum equations,and the onshore mass flux caused by waves (Stokes drift)and rollers are considered in the calculation formulae of radiation stress, to make the momentum equations and radiation stress more reasonable in the surf-wine; (3)With both rectangular grid and triangular grid,two sets of finite-difference mathematical models of wave-induced nearshore current are set up. The model is applied in a model sea area.