可渗透岛礁环境下的波浪运动研究

文章应用边界单元法，依据波浪绕射理论研究了潜淹没岛礁上的波浪运动问题。研究中分析了岛礁的渗透性、排布的数量、环礁泻湖的深度等因素对于岛礁消波作用的影响，获得了不同岛礁环境下波浪的透射系数、反射系数。研究发现，可渗透岛礁的消波效果比不可渗透岛礁差，且孔隙率越大，岛礁对于波浪的消波效果越小；单个岛礁对长波有明显的消波作用，而对中短波几乎没有影响；但随着岛礁排布数量的增加，岛礁群对于中波的消波效果增加；环礁的消波效果受到泻湖深度的影响，在一定范围内，泻湖的深度越大，环礁对于中短波的消波效果越好，但当泻湖深度达到一定数值后，继续增大深度，消波效果基本没有提高。

Study on wave motion over submerged reefs

Based on wave diffraction theory, boundary element method is applied to study wave motion over submerged reefs. The transmission coefficient, reflection coefficient under different conditions such as per-meability, number of arrays and the lagoon’s depth are obtained. It is found that, porous reefs have less wave elimination effect than impermeable reefs. When the porosity of reefs is bigger, their wave elimination ability will become worse. A single reef is only efficient on the wave elimination of long waves, while an array of reefs have an efficient wave elimination effect on medium waves. Lagoon reef ’s wave elimination ability is determined by lagoon’s depth. The wave elimination effect of lagoon reef on medium and short waves will get better when lagoon’s depth increases. But the elimination effect will show little change when lagoon’s depth reaches a certain value.