Green-Naghdi theory, part A: Green-Naghdi (GN) equations for shallow water waves

In this work,Green-Naghdi (GN) equations with general weight functions were derived in a simple way. A wave-absorbing beach was also considered in the general GN equations. A numerical solution for a level higher than 4 was not feasible in the past with the original GN equations. The GN equations for shallow water waves were simplified here, which make the application of high level (higher than 4) equations feasible. The linear dispersion relationships of the first seven levels were presented. The accuracy of dispersion relationships increased as the level increased. Level 7 GN equations are capable of simulating waves out to wave number times depth . Numerical simulation of nonlinear water waves was performed by use of Level 5 and 7 GN equations, which will be presented in the next paper.     

几种典型海滩平衡剖面模型中参数意义的探讨

海滩平衡剖面是海岸近岸过程研究的一个重要概念,在海岸工程中有应用价值。通过分析认为粤东后江湾的海滩剖面处于动态平衡状态。应用Dean、Bodge和Lee等3种海滩平衡剖面模型对后江湾的海滩剖面数据进行拟合,并从地形动力学的角度对拟合结果进行了分析解释,结果表明3个模型中的参数分别包含有波浪周期或波长、剖面变化渐近深度、海滩反射性等物理意义。这可为海岸工程设计确定近岸水下地形轮廓提供重要的依据。     

航道水深对波浪传播影响的数值模拟研究

利用CGWAVE波浪数值模型探讨波浪入射角度不同时航道水深对波浪传播的影响,得出航道与两侧岸滩不同水深比条件下的波浪临界入射角。通过与物理模型试验的对比验证该数值模型的可信度,并将其应用于曹妃甸中心渔港一期工程项目中,本研究的相关成果可用于指导航道工程设计和建设。     

数值波浪水槽中的被动式消波

采用边界元方法,建立一种非线性数值波浪水槽,借助吸收海岸和被动吸收式推板消波的方法,处理波浪模拟中的消波,检验水槽内不同频率的波浪吸收效果,并长时间模拟服从JONSWAP谱的不规则波;结果表明,这种消波方法可以满足长时间计算需要,可为工程研究奠定基础。     

Indicators for Evaluating the Impact of Artificial Islands on the Barcelona Coast

Artificial islands have been constructed next to large cities due to the need for extra space in highly populated areas. These emerged structures have been used by many countries as platforms for developing infrastructure (airports, harbors, highways, etc.), rebuilding ecological areas, and creating new spaces for tourism or residential areas. In this study, two state-of-the-art numerical models for wave propagation and nearshore circulation are used to simulate the effects of an emerged artificial island on the Barcelona coast. Several sea indicators (wave height, intensity and direction of currents, and mean water level) are analyzed to assess the changes likely to be induced by an artificial island. Three different situations are studied and the indicators are compared across the different tests to obtain information that can be used in the planning process of these structures. In two-meter wave conditions, the tests show that wave height is generally reduced in the sheltered area, which leads to improved safety for beach users (bathing is prohibited when wave height exceeds the two-meter threshold). However, the numerical models also reveal that velocities in the sheltered area usually decrease, which must be controlled to prevent stagnation in the bathing area.     

Managing Shoreline Change Under Increasing Sea-Level Rise in Ghana

Relative sea-level rise will affect vulnerable coastal communities globally. Quantifying this effect on the coastal environment and infrastructure provides critical information that enables coastal managers to develop sustainable mitigation and adaptation measures. Modeling applications have enabled the past, present, and future trends in shoreline morphology to be investigated in detail. Predictive numerical models depend largely on the reliability of the input data. This article reports on using the Soft Cliff and Platform Erosion (SCAPE) numerical model to simulate future shoreline evolution trend in the central Accra coast in Ghana. The model input parameters include historic shoreline recession rates, wave data, tidal data, bathymetry, beach volume, beach topography, historic relative sea-level rise rates, and the shoreline orientation. The data fed the SCAPE numerical model which simulated the emergence of soft rock shore profiles over timescale of decades to centuries, to project future positions of the central Accra shoreline for the next 100 years under different scenarios of climate change. Simulated future shoreline positions overlaid on a 2005 orthophoto map of Accra enabled vulnerable areas and infrastructure at risk to be identified. It emerged that a highly populated community in central Accra will be inundated by 2065, while the Rivera beach resort will be eroded from 2035. A natural fish landing site in Osu (suburb in Accra) will be lost from 2045. The study has demonstrated that considerable ecological, economic, social, and national losses should be expected within the next century. Shoreline change management options should be explored to help mitigate the expected impact of the sea-level rise.     

Synergies between Adjacent Beach-Nourishing Communities in a Morpho-Economic Coupled Coastline Model

Beach “nourishment” consists of placing sand on an eroding beach. The widened beach provides increased storm protection to adjacent structures and improved recreational benefits, but is most often transient, requiring on-going, repeated nourishment episodes. Numerical models of beach nourishment typically address such questions as how long a widened beach will last; economic models compare the benefits and costs of preserving a stretch of beach without regard to its geomorphic evolution. Neither have addressed the physical nor economic interactions between adjacent nourishing communities. Here, we couple a numerical model of coastline evolution and a cost-benefit model of beach nourishment, allowing adjacent communities to make dynamic nourishment decisions. Beach nourishment benefits adjacent communities both “updrift” and “downdrift.” The total amount of money spent on nourishment activities can decrease by as much as 25% when adjacent communities both conduct on-going nourishment projects, as opposed to the case where each community nourishes in isolation.     

砂质海滩不透空丁坝特性研究

丁坝是整治海岸侵蚀的主要结构物之一。如何在特定的水动力条件和泥沙条件下建设具有岸线防护功能的丁坝,对整治海岸侵蚀具有重大意义。用数值方法研究丁坝建设后近岸的波浪、水流及泥沙运动,从近坝泥沙输沙率及近坝水流的变化分析探讨丁坝长度与角度的选取,得出不同沙滩坡度、波高、波向下沿坝裂流情况和近坝泥沙运动情况,并给出丁坝长度与角度的选取建议。     

An Alert System for Beach Hazard Management in the Balearic Islands

A real-time beach hazard level associated with nearshore hydrodynamics is presented in this article. The suitability of the discussed alert system is illustrated via its application to fifteen beaches in the Balearic Islands (Western Mediterranean Sea) providing nearshore safety conditions for beach safety manager. The system provides daily forecasts of nearshore wave conditions using the deep water wave forecasts. The shallow water wave data (wave height, period, and direction) together with the morphology of the site (presence of bars, capes, beach type, etc.) are used to define a hazard level (low, medium, and high) associated with local conditions. The resulting hazard level is transmitted via SMS to lifeguards and local authorities for real-time beach management. The low computational cost of this system after the initial implementation and subsequent calibration results in a very suitable approach for beach management in order to mitigate risks related to local hydrodynamics.     

陆丰海洋基地码头工程防波堤平面布置

为保障泊稳条件、减轻工程对周边岸线的影响、合理降低工程投资,对陆丰海洋基地码头工程防波堤平面布置进行研究。结合波浪和潮流观测资料、遥感影像历史资料,运用波浪、潮流泥沙及岸滩演变数值模拟手段,分析陆丰海洋基地所在地水文特性,厘清不同防波堤平面布置方案下泊稳条件、波浪荷载、流场变化、泥沙运动及岸滩演变特点,探讨工程平面布置方案的优劣。经对比分析,考虑预留更多的扩建空间及分期建设的便利性,建议采用东北开口方案,暂不延长防波堤,并对受影响岸段辅以相应的岸滩整治措施。     

A time-domain higher-order boundary element method for 3D forward-speed radiation and diffraction problems

A time-domain higher-order boundary element method for seakeeping analyses in the framework of linear potential theory is newly developed. Ship waves generated by two modified Wigley models advancing at a constant forward speed in calm water or incident waves and the resultant radiation and diffraction forces are computed to validate this code. A rectangular computational domain moving with the same forward speed as the ship is introduced, in which an artificial damping beach is installed at an outer portion of the free surface except the downstream side for satisfying the radiation condition. The velocity potential on the ship hull and the normal velocity on the free surface are calculated directly by solving the boundary integral equation. An explicit time-marching scheme is employed for updating both kinematic and dynamic free-surface boundary conditions, with an embedding of a second-order upwind difference scheme for the derivative in the x-direction to stabilize the calculation. Extensive results including the exciting forces, added mass and damping coefficients, wave profiles, and wave patterns for blunt Wigley and slender Wigley hulls with forward speed are presented to validate the efficiency of the proposed 3D time-domain approach. The corresponding physical tests of the radiation and diffraction problems in a towing tank are also carried out. Computed numerical results show good agreement with the corresponding experimental data and other numerical solutions.     

人工沙滩在堤后次生波作用下的稳定性试验

基于波浪泥沙物理模型,考虑不同水位条件、不同重现期的波浪作用以及复坡和单坡2种不同坡度的沙滩坡面,对斯里兰卡科伦坡港口人工沙滩的冲淤情况及稳定性进行试验研究。结果表明,在次生波作用下,沙滩出现了不同程度的冲刷,沙滩剖面出现冲刷的主要部位一般位于水面线以下的波浪破碎带内,但当波浪条件增大时,人工沙滩剖面在水面线以上也呈普遍冲刷状态。在试验工况范围内,外海水位越高,波高、周期越大,防波堤堤后的次生波越大,所造成的沙滩剖面变形越大,冲刷深度越大。复坡和单坡2种不同坡度方案滩面泥沙在次生波作用下的冲淤部位基本相似,剖面稳定性相当。     

基于Star-CCM+的摆式波浪能装置水动力性能研究（英文）

A two-dimensional numerical Computational Fluid Dynamics(CFD) model is established on the basis of viscous CFD theory to investigate the motion response and power absorption performance of a bottom-hinged flap-type wave energy converter(WEC)under regular wave conditions. The convergence study of mesh size and time step is performed to ensure that wave height and motion response are sufficiently accurate. Wave height results reveal that the attenuation of wave height along the wave tank is less than 5% only if the suitable mesh size and time step are selected. The model proposed in this work is verified against published experimental and numerical models. The effects of mechanical damping, wave height, wave frequency, and water depth on the motion response, power generation, and energy conversion efficiency of the flap-type WEC are investigated. The selection of the appropriate mechanical damping of the WEC is crucial for the optimal extraction of wave power. The optimal mechanical damping can be readily predicted by using potential flow theory. It can then be verified by applying CFD numerical results. In addition, the motion response and the energy conversion efficiency of the WEC decrease as the incident wave height increases because the strengthened nonlinear effect of waves intensifies energy loss. Moreover, the energy conversion efficiency of the WEC decreases with increasing water depth and remains constant as the water depth reaches a critical value. Therefore, the selection of the optimal parameters during the design process is necessary to ensure that the WEC exhibits the maximum energy conversion efficiency.     

Numerical analysis of the hydroelastic behavior of a vertical plate due to solitary waves

Interactions of a vertical elastic plate with fully nonlinear water waves were simulated. Utilizing the mixed Eulerian Lagrangian method for the free-surface flow and the finite element method for the deflection of an elastic plate, a fully coupled scheme for accurately determining fluid–plate motions was developed. Using this scheme, some modifications to the solvers for both fluid and plate were made. A hybrid wave-absorbing beach was installed to prevent wave reflection from the end of the wave tank. A fourth-order Runge–Kutta time-marching scheme with a uniform time step was applied to achieve numerical stability. The method was validated by simulating the wave generated by the initial deformation of a vertical plate and comparing the result with the corresponding analytical solution. For further validation, the hydroelastic behavior of a vertical plate induced by a pulse-type wave (where the initial pulse-type elevation of the free surface is specified) was computed, and the result was compared with another numerical result from a mode-expansion method. The interaction of a surface-piercing plate with nonzero initial free surface was then simulated, and the result was compared with the corresponding linear analytical solution. Finally, the hydroelastic response of a surface-piercing vertical plate due to a solitary wave (generated by actuating the vertical plate at the right end of the tank only at the beginning) was computed and investigated systematically.     

近岸波浪数学模型的发展

概要地介绍了国内外平面二维、垂向二维和三维波浪数学模型的研究进展及其应用情况,探讨了波浪数学模型的发展方向。     

A medium-resolution wave hindcast study over the Central and Western Mediterranean Sea

The present study is aimed at determining the confidence limits of design wave parameters derived from numerical modeling—for both extremes and operational conditions—over the Central and Western Mediterranean Sea. The paper presents the methodology and results of an extensive validation activity conducted on a chain of medium-resolution third-generation wave models used for hindcast purposes. The stringent requirements of state-of-the-art coastal and offshore engineering applications over this area make the adoption of medium- or high-resolution hindcast wave and wind models almost mandatory because of the complex coastal geometry, bathymetry, and orography that in turn lead to large variations of the design wave parameters even within small regions. The chains of nested meteorological and wave models used in this hindcast study belong to the ETA and WaveWatch III families, respectively. In this study the wind and wave numerical models have been run over the past 20 years, with increasing resolutions of the wave models from 0.2° up to 0.04°. The results presented herein have 0.1° resolution for both wind and wave models. The wave data obtained are compared with available measurements from 14 wave buoys in coastal zones in the Central and Western Mediterranean Sea.     

基于Longuet-Higgins模型的畸形波模拟方法

基于随机波浪的Longuet-Higgins模型,给出了4种模拟畸形波的数值模型:相位调制模型(部分组成波初相位相同模型和调制相位角范围模型),相位调制加聚焦模型,随机波加瞬态波模型以及改进的相位调制模型。简要介绍了各模型的优缺点。其中,随机波加瞬态波模型和改进的相位调制模型最优,实现了畸形波的定时定点和定量生成,为实验室模拟畸形波、研究畸形波的能量以及对结构物的作用奠定了基础。     

淮河出海航道滩头整治工程平面方案分析

航道整治需抓住工程实施的有利时机,在通航条件还未恶化前提前预防。以淮河出海航道(红山头—京杭运河段)大淤滩整治工程为例,利用平面二维水流数学模型对滩头不同侵蚀方案产生效果进行计算,分析若不对滩头进行守护将可能导致的后果,说明滩头守护的必要性,并结合河床演变分析提出滩头整治工程平面布置方案。     

基于RANS法和边界层理论预报三维船体阻力

基于船体阻力成因和分类,应用二因次RANS法并结合EFD技术为研究手段,研究了船体各阻力成分和兴波波形,考虑边界层第一层网格高度对数值计算结果的影响,通过数值模拟计算和兴波波形比较,分析表明第一层网格无量纲高度y+值充分影响数值结果精度,总阻力在高傅汝德数下其数值误差有增大趋势,同一航速下摩擦阻力值随y+增加略微增大,剩余阻力值却明显减少,且自由面兴波随傅汝德数增大首部波高愈发明显,船中及尾部区域兴波向外扩散,船首尾肩部开尔文波系明显且波峰后移,其趋势与EFD波形一致,具有实用性。     

The effect of sloshing on the sway motions of 2D rectangular cylinders in regular waves

In this paper, we investigated the effect of sloshing on the sway motions of two-dimensional rectangular cylinders in regular waves, bearing in mind possible applications for LNG-FPSO and LNG-FSRU. First, we carried out experiments for two models with different drafts, or the same draft but different filling ratios, in which the models were firmly connected to each other. The sway motion was measured with a noncontact video camera. This is an extension of Rognebakke and Faltinsen’s work for a single model (J Ship Res 47(3):208–221, 2003). It was found that the sway motion became small when the incident wave frequency was close to the lowest natural frequency of each model. The sway motion greatly increased when the wave frequency was higher than this frequency. The measured data were compared with numerical results obtained by a single-dominant multi-modal method; relatively good agreement was noted. However, the numerical results deviated from the experimental results near the lowest natural frequency of the smaller model, which was believed to be due to overturning waves, as observed during the experiment. Since this is out of the valid range for the single-dominant multi-modal method, other, more appropriate, methods such as the multi-dominant modal method must be applied instead.