Diffraction of oblique water waves by small uneven channel-bed in a two-layer fluid

Obliquely incident water wave scattering by an uneven channel-bed in the form of a small bottom undulation in a two-layer fluid is investigated within the frame work of three-dimensional linear water wave theory. The upper fluid is assumed to be bounded above by a rigid lid, while the lower one is bounded below by a bottom surface having a small deformation and the channel is unbounded in the horizontal directions. Assuming irrotational motion, perturbation technique is employed to calculate the first-order corrections to the velocity potentials in the two fluids by using Fourier transform approximately, and also to calculate the reflection and transmission coefficients in terms of integrals involving the shape function representing the bottom deformation. Consideration of a patch of sinusoidal ripples shows that the reflection coefficient is an oscillatory function of the ratio of twice the component of the wave number along x-axis and the ripple wave number. When this ratio approaches one, the theory predicts a resonant interaction between the bed and interface, and the reflection coefficient becomes a multiple of the number of ripples. High reflection of incident wave energy occurs if this number is large.     

经过海峡的双层流体由底部波动产生的斜向波散射问题研究(英文)

The problem of oblique wave(internal wave) propagation over a small deformation in a channel flow consisting of two layers was considered.The upper fluid was assumed to be bounded above by a rigid lid,which is an approximation for the free surface,and the lower one was bounded below by an impermeable bottom surface having a small deformation;the channel was unbounded in the horizontal directions.Assuming irrotational motion,the perturbation technique was employed to calculate the first-order corrections of the velocity potential in the two fluids by using Green’s integral theorem suitably with the introduction of appropriate Green’s functions.Those functions help in calculating the reflection and transmission coefficients in terms of integrals involving the shape function representing the bottom deformation.Three-dimensional linear water wave theory was utilized for formulating the relevant boundary value problem.Two special examples of bottom deformation were considered to validate the results.Consideration of a patch of sinusoidal ripples(having the same wave number) shows that the reflection coefficient is an oscillatory function of the ratio of twice the x-component of the wave number to the ripple wave number.When this ratio approaches one,the theory predicts a resonant interaction between the bed and the interface,and the reflection coefficient becomes a multiple of the number of ripples.High reflection of incident wave energy occurs if this number is large.Similar results were observed for a patch of sinusoidal ripples having different wave numbers.It was also observed that for small angles of incidence,the reflected energy is greater compared to other angles of incidence up to.These theoretical observations are supported by graphical results.     

Wave Scattering by Porous Bottom Undulation in a Two Layered Channel

The scattering of plane surface waves by bottom undulations in channel flow consisting of two layers is investigated by assuming that the bed of the channel is composed of porous material. The upper surface of the fluid is bounded by a rigid lid and the channel is unbounded in the horizontal directions. There exists only one wave mode corresponding to an internal wave. For small undulations, a simplified perturbation analysis is used to obtain first order reflection and transmission coefficients in terms of integrals involving the shape function describing the bottom. For sinusoidal bottom undulations and exponentially decaying bottom topography, the first order coefficients are computed. In the case of sinusoidal bottom the first order transmission coefficient is found to vanish identically. The numerical results are depicted graphically in a number of figures.     

冰盖下近圆柱产生的水波散射分析（英文）

Assuming linear theory, the two-dimensional problem of water wave scattering by a horizontal nearly circular cylinder submerged in infinitely deep water with an ice cover modeled as a thin-elastic plate floating on water, is investigated here. The cross-section of the nearly circular cylinder is taken as r=a(1+δC(θ)), where a is the radius of the corresponding circular cross-section of the cylinder, δ is a measure of small departure of the cross-section of the cylinder from its circularity and C(θ) is the shape function. Using a simplified perturbation technique the problem is reduced to two independent boundary value problems up to first order in δ. The first one corresponds to water wave scattering by a circular cylinder submerged in water with an ice-cover, while the second problem describes wave radiation by a submerged circular cylinder and involves first order correction to the reflection and transmission coefficients. The corrections are obtained in terms of integrals involving the shape function. Assuming a general Fourier expansion of the shape function, these corrections are evaluated approximately. It is well known that normally incident wave trains experience no reflection by a circular cylinder submerged in infinitely deep water with an ice cover. It is shown here that the reflection coefficient also vanishes up to first order for some particular choice of the shape function representing a nearly circular cylinder. For these cases, full transmission occurs, only change is in its phase which is depicted graphically against the wave number in a number of figures and appropriate conclusions are drawn.     

可渗透海床上具有小底部变形的斜弯曲重力波的相互作用:格林函数法（英文）

The interaction of oblique incident water waves with a small bottom deformation on a porous ocean-bed is examined analytically here within the framework of linear water wave theory. The upper surface of the ocean is assumed to be covered by an infinitely extended thin uniform elastic plate, while the lower surface is bounded by a porous bottom surface having a small deformation. By employing a simplified perturbation analysis, involving a small parameter δ(1), which measures the smallness of the deformation, the governing Boundary Value Problem(BVP) is reduced to a simpler BVP for the first-order correction of the potential function. This BVP is solved using a method based on Green's integral theorem with the introduction of suitable Green's function to obtain the first-order potential, and this potential function is then utilized to calculate the first-order reflection and transmission coefficients in terms of integrals involving the shape function c(x) representing the bottom deformation. Consideration of a patch of sinusoidal ripples shows that when the quotient of twice the component of the incident field wave number propagating just below the elastic plate and the ripple wave number approaches one, the theory predicts a resonant interaction between the bed and the surface below the elastic plate. Again, for small angles of incidence, the reflected wave energy is more as compared to the other angles of incidence. It is also observed that the reflected wave energy is somewhat sensitive to the changes in the flexural rigidity of the elastic plate, the porosity of the bed and the ripple wave numbers. The main advantage of the present study is that the results for the values of reflection and transmission coefficients obtained are found to satisfy the energy-balance relation almost accurately.     

水底地形变化对摇板造波的影响

In the present paper,the effect of a small bottom undulation of the sea bed in the form of periodic bed form on the surface waves generated due to a rolling oscillation of a vertical barrier either partially immersed or completely submerged in water of non uniform finite depth is investigated.A simplified perturbation technique involving a non dimensional parameter characterizing the smallness of the bottom deformation is applied to reduce the given boundary value problem to two independent boundary value problems upto first order.The first boundary value problem corresponds to the problem of water wave generation due to rolling oscillation of a vertical barrier either partially immersed or completely submerged in water of uniform finite depth.This is a well known problem whose solution is available in the literature.From the second boundary value problem,the first order correction to the wave amplitude at infinity is evaluated in terms of the shape function characterizing the bottom undulation,by employing Green’s integral theorem.For a patch of sinusoidal ripples at the sea bottom,the first order correction to the wave amplitude at infinity for both the configuration of the barrier is then evaluated numerically and illustrated graphically for various values of the wave number.It is observed that resonant interaction of the wave generated,with the sinusoidal bottom undulation occurs when the ratio of twice the wavelength of the sinusoidal ripple to the wave length of waves generated,approaches unity.Also it is found that the resonance increases as the length of the barrier increases.     

Scattering of Oblique Surface Waves by the Edge of Small Deformation on a Porous Ocean Bed

The scattering of oblique incident surface waves by the edge of a small cylindrical deformation on a porous bed in an ocean of finite depth, is investigated here within the framework of linearized water wave theory. Using perturbation analysis, the corresponding problem governed by modified Helmholtz equation is reduced to a boundary value problem for the first-order correction of the potential function. The first-order potential and, hence, the reflection and transmission coefficients are obtained by a method based on Green’s integral theorem with the introduction of appropriate Green’s function. Consideration of a patch of sinusoidal ripples shows that when the quotient of twice the component of the incident field wave number along x-direction and the ripple wave number approaches one, the theory predicts a resonant interaction between the bed and the free-surface, and the reflection coefficient becomes a multiple of the number of ripples. Again, for small angles of incidence, the reflected energy is more as compared to the other angles of incidence. It is also observed that the reflected energy is somewhat sensitive to the changes in the porosity of the ocean bed. From the derived results, the solutions for problems with impermeable ocean bed can be obtained as particular cases.     

Scattering of surface waves by the edge of a small undulation on a porous bed in an ocean with ice-cover

Scattering of surface waves by the edge of a small undulation on a porous bed in an ocean of finite depth, where the free surface has an ice-cover being modelled as an elastic plate of very small thickness, is investigated within the framework of linearized water wave theory. The effect of surface tension at the surface below the ice-cover is neglected. There exists only one wave number propagating at just below the ice-cover. A perturbation analysis is employed to solve the boundary value problem governed by Laplace＇s equation by a method based on Green＇s integral theorem with the introduction of appropriate Green＇s function and thereby evaluating the reflection and transmission coefficients approximately up to first order. A patch of sinusoidal ripples is considered as an example and the related coefficients are determined.     

有限水深中垂直下潜弹性薄板的水波散射(英文)

The problem of water wave scattering by a thin vertical elastic plate submerged in uniform finite depth water is investigated here.The boundary condition on the elastic plate is derived from the Bernoulli-Euler equation of motion satisfied by the plate.Using the Green’s function technique,from this boundary condition,the normal velocity of the plate is expressed in terms of the difference between the velocity potentials(unknown)across the plate.The two ends of the plate are either clamped or free.The reflection and transmission coefficients are obtained in terms of the integrals’involving combinations of the unknown velocity potential on the two sides of the plate,which satisfy three simultaneous integral equations and are solved numerically.These coefficients are computed numerically for various values of different parameters and depicted graphically against the wave number in a number of figures.     

A three-dimensional, wave-current coupled, sediment transport model for POM

In the high-energy environment of coastal seas and estuaries,strong sediment resuspension/ deposition events are driven by surface waves,tides,winds and buoyancy driven currents.In recent years,A POM based three-dimensional,wave-current coupled,sediment transport model has been developed by the University of New South Wales.This paper presents several examples of the model applications to study sediment dynamics in the environments where forcings such as waves,tides,and winds are equally important to affect sediment fluxes and distributions.Firstly,the sediment transport model coupled to the Yellow Sea general circulation model and a third generation wave model SWAN was implemented in the Yellow Sea to study the dynamics of the sediment transport and resuspension in the northern Jiangsu shoal-wate(rNJSW).The sediment distributions and fluxes and their inter-annual variability were studied by realistic numerical simulations.The study found that the surface waves played a dominant role over the tides to form the turbidity maxima along the muddy coast of NJSW. Secondly,the sediment transport model was used to explore the effect of suspended sediment-induced stratification in the bottom boundary laye(rBBL).The model uses a re-parameterized bottom drag coefficient Cd that incorporates a linear stability function of flux Richardson number Rf.The study has shown that the sediment induced stratification in the BBL reduces the vertical eddy viscosity and bottom shear stress in comparison with the model prediction in a neutrally stratified BBL.In response to these apparent reductions,the tidal current shear is increased and sediments are abnormally concentrated within a thin wall layer that is overlain by a thicker layer with much smaller concentration.The formation of this fluid-mud layer near the seabed has led to a significant reduction in the total sediment transport.This study contributes to the understanding of formations of tidal flats along the coasts of turbid seas and estuaries.     

双层流中由小型不平坦河床引起的斜向入射水波绕射研究（英文）

Obliquely incident water wave scattering by an uneven channel-bed in the form of a small bottom undulation in a two-layer fluid is investigated within the frame work of three-dimensional linear water wave theory. The upper fluid is assumed to be bounded above by a rigid lid, while the lower one is bounded below by a bottom surface having a small deformation and the channel is unbounded in the horizontal directions. Assuming irrotational motion, perturbation technique is employed to calculate the first-order corrections to the velocity potentials in the two fluids by using Fourier transform approximately, and also to calculate the reflection and transmission coefficients in terms of integrals involving the shape function representing the bottom deformation. Consideration of a patch of sinusoidal ripples shows that the reflection coefficient is an oscillatory function of the ratio of twice the component of the wave number along x-axis and the ripple wave number. When this ratio approaches one, the theory predicts a resonant interaction between the bed and interface, and the reflection coefficient becomes a multiple of the number of ripples. High reflection of incident wave energy occurs if this number is large.     

Wave scattering by undulating bed topography in a two-layer ocean

The problem of wave scattering by undulating bed topography in a two-layer ocean is investigated on the basis of linear theory. In a two-layer fluid with the upper layer having a free surface, there exist two modes of waves propagating at both the free surface of the upper layer and the interface between the two layers. Due to a wave train of a particular mode incident on an obstacle which is bottom-standing on the lower layer, reflected and transmitted waves of both modes are created by the obstacle. For small undulations on the bottom of the lower layer, a perturbation method is employed to obtain first-order reflection and transmission coefficients of both modes for incident wave trains of again both modes in terms of integrals involving the bed-shape function. For sinusoidal undulations, numerical results are presented graphically to illustrate the energy transfer between the waves of different modes by the undulating bed. U. BASU was born in 1949. She is a professor in the Department Applied Mathematics, Calcutta University, India. Her current research interests include water wave problems, continuum mechanics, etc.     

Hydrodynamics of a body floating in a two-layer fluid of finite depth. Part 2. Diffraction problem and wave-induced motions

A linearized two-dimensional diffraction problem in a two-layer fluid of finite depth was solved for a general floating body and relevant wave-induced motions were studied. In a two-layer fluid, for a prescribed frequency, incident waves propagate with two different wave modes. Thus the wave-exciting forces and resulting motions must be computed separately for each mode of the incident wave. The boundary integral equation method developed by the authors in the Part-1 article was applied to directly obtain the diffraction potential (pressure) on the body surface. With the computed results, an investigation was carried out on the effects of the fluid density ratio and the interface position on the wave-exciting forces on the body and the motions of the body, including the case in which the body intersects the interface. By a systematic derivation using Green's theorem, all the possible reciprocity relations were derived theoretically in explicit forms for a system of finite depth; these relations were confirmed to be satisfied numerically with very good accuracy. Experiments were also carried out using water and isoparaffin oil as the two fluids and a Lewis-form body. Measured results for the sway- and heave-exciting forces and the heave motion were compared with the computed results, and a favorable agreement was found.     

Trapped Modes in a Three-Layer Fluid

In this work, trapped mode frequencies are computed for a submerged horizontal circular cylinder with the hydrodynamic set-up involving an infinite depth three-layer incompressible fluid with layer-wise different densities. The impermeable cylinder is fully immersed in either the bottom layer or the upper layer. The effect of surface tension at the surface of separation is neglected. In this set-up, there exist three wave numbers: the lowest one on the free surface and the other two on the internal interfaces. For each wave number, there exist two modes for which trapped waves exist. The existence of these trapped modes is shown by numerical evidence. We investigate the variation of these trapped modes subject to change in the depth of the middle layer as well as the submergence depth. We show numerically that two-layer and single-layer results cannot be recovered in the double and single limiting cases of the density ratios tending to unity. The existence of trapped modes shows that in general, a radiation condition for the waves at infinity is insufficient for the uniqueness of the solution of the scattering problem.     

起伏河床地形上薄的垂直物体对倾斜水面波的散射（英文）

The present study deals with the scattering of oblique surface water waves by small undulation on the bottom in the presence of a thin vertical barrier. Here, three different configurations of vertical barriers are investigated. Perturbation analysis is employed to determine the physical quantities, namely, the reflection and transmission coefficients. In this analysis, many different Boundary Value Problems(BVPs) are obtained out of which the first two bvps are considered. The zeroth order bvp is solved with the aid of eigenfunction expansion method. The first order reflection and transmission coefficients are derived in terms of the integrals by the method of the Green's integral theorem. The variation of these coefficients is plotted and analyzed for different physical parameters. Furthermore, the energy balance relation, an important relation in the study of water wave scattering, is derived and checked for assuring the correctness of the numerical results for the present problem.     

三层流体中的捕获模态分析（英文）

In this work, trapped mode frequencies are computed for a submerged horizontal circular cylinder with the hydrodynamic set-up involving an infinite depth three-layer incompressible fluid with layer-wise different densities. The impermeable cylinder is fully immersed in either the bottom layer or the upper layer. The effect of surface tension at the surface of separation is neglected. In this set-up, there exist three wave numbers: the lowest one on the free surface and the other two on the internal interfaces. For each wave number, there exist two modes for which trapped waves exist. The existence of these trapped modes is shown by numerical evidence. We investigate the variation of these trapped modes subject to change in the depth of the middle layer as well as the submergence depth. We show numerically that two-layer and single-layer results cannot be recovered in the double and single limiting cases of the density ratios tending to unity. The existence of trapped modes shows that in general, a radiation condition for the waves at infinity is insufficient for the uniqueness of the solution of the scattering problem.     

Scattering of oblique surface water waves by thin vertical barrier over undulating bed topography

The present study deals with the scattering of oblique surface water waves by small undulation on the bottom in the presence of a thin vertical barrier. Here, three different configurations of vertical barriers are investigated. Perturbation analysis is employed to determine the physical quantities, namely, the reflection and transmission coefficients. In this analysis, many different Boundary Value Problems (BVPs) are obtained out of which the first two bvps are considered. The zeroth order bvp is solved with the aid of eigenfunction expansion method. The first order reflection and transmission coefficients are derived in terms of the integrals by the method of the Green’s integral theorem. The variation of these coefficients is plotted and analyzed for different physical parameters. Furthermore, the energy balance relation, an important relation in the study of water wave scattering, is derived and checked for assuring the correctness of the numerical results for the present problem.     

The interaction of oblique flexural gravity waves with a small bottom deformation on a porous ocean-bed: Green’s function approach

The interaction of oblique incident water waves with a small bottom deformation on a porous ocean-bed is examined analytically here within the framework of linear water wave theory. The upper surface of the ocean is assumed to be covered by an infinitely extended thin uniform elastic plate, while the lower surface is bounded by a porous bottom surface having a small deformation. By employing a simplified perturbation analysis, involving a small parameter δ(=1), which measures the smallness of the deformation, the governing Boundary Value Problem (BVP) is reduced to a simpler BVP for the first-order correction of the potential function. This BVP is solved using a method based on Green’s integral theorem with the introduction of suitable Green’s function to obtain the first-order potential, and this potential function is then utilized to calculate the first-order reflection and transmission coefficients in terms of integrals involving the shape function c(x) representing the bottom deformation. Consideration of a patch of sinusoidal ripples shows that when the quotient of twice the component of the incident field wave number propagating just below the elastic plate and the ripple wave number approaches one, the theory predicts a resonant interaction between the bed and the surface below the elastic plate. Again, for small angles of incidence, the reflected wave energy is more as compared to the other angles of incidence. It is also observed that the reflected wave energy is somewhat sensitive to the changes in the flexural rigidity of the elastic plate, the porosity of the bed and the ripple wave numbers. The main advantage of the present study is that the results for the values of reflection and transmission coefficients obtained are found to satisfy the energy-balance relation almost accurately.